Tuesday, October 15, 2013

Yellowstone - Geology

The next morning is cloudy, but not raining, so we decide to try our luck again with Yellowstone Park, besides we come armed with a reservation at Fishing Bridge - the largest RV Campground in the park. Leaving Cody westward, the road follows the shore of Buffalo Bill Reservoir, part of the Buffalo Bill State Park. This state park has good campgrounds and we considered staying at the North Fork, but opted to stay in town instead. The area is dotted with high end housing developments marked by expensive bronze statues at the front gate.
Looking west over Buffalo Bill Reservoir

Nice statue of dueling Elk


Close to the Buffalo Bill Dam, a tunnel takes us right through the mountain made up of pink and black granite as we move towards the Eastern Entrance of Yellowstone Park.
Tunnel through pink & black granite

Approaching Yellowstone's Eastern Entrance


On par for this trip, as we approach Yellowstone Park, it starts to rain again. Oh well, we'll just have to make the best of the rotten weather. So much for my fantasy of crystal clear blue skies in Yellowstone.

Yellowstone's geothermal features draw many visitors from all over the world to the park. In fact, the park contains over 10,000 thermal features with between 300 and 500 active geysers, which is more than 55% of the world's geysers. What creates all of this geothermal activity? Basically most of Yellowstone Park sits in the caldera of one of the world's greatest supervolcanoes, which has and can blanket most of the United States with ash from a single eruption. Yellowstone's eruptions easily dwarf Mt Saint Helen's 1980 massive explosion. If Yellowstone were to explode again, much of the life in the earth's northern hemisphere would disappear.  Even if life survived the initial explosions and ash fall, the volcanic winters to follow would be difficult to survive. Let's just hope it doesn't blow during our lifetimes and especially while visiting the park.

Eastern Entrance

Graphic of the Yellowstone's Caldera at the Norris Basin Museum

Steam rising along Yellowstone River

Even though it's a dreary day and we've been to many of Yellowstone's geothermal features before, I talk Peter into visiting some again as they fascinate me, besides I want to take photos - rain or no rain.
Mud Volcano

Dragon's Mouth Spring

Cooking Hillside

Sulfur Caldron



About the only wildlife we see in these areas are ravens.
Raven on railing by Mud Geyser

Visitor walks like a Raven


We follow the river up along the rim of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone to Artist Point. From the yellow sulfur in the canyon walls, even on a cloudy day it's easy to see how this area got the name of "Yellowstone."
Yellowstone Canyon

Lower Falls

Yellowstone Falls

Painting a watercolor @ Artist Point

The next stop is the Norris Geyser Basin. It's these types of landscapes that earned the fire and brimstone descriptions of the early explorers which were dismissed as "deliriums," until official expeditions confirmed the other-worldly nature of Yellowstone befitting Dante's Inferno.
Visitors at the entrance to the Norris Geyser Basin



We start out on the Porcelain Basin part of the trails. With the colors reminding us of delicately painted porcelain plates, we agree it's aptly named.
Trail through Porcelain Basin











We then take the Back Basin trail to see more of the basin. Although colors aren't as spectacular, there are some surprising pools.
Back Basin trail








Norris Geyser Basin



Once back up in the parking lot, it's hard not to notice all the tour buses and RVs parked there. In fact, we can't recall ever seeing this many tour buses on previous trips to Yellowstone - cars and RVs packed with families yes, but tour buses from Salt Lake City? This tour bus business seems to have grown up in the last 20 years to take mostly foreign visitors to our more spectacular parks



The rain isn't letting up any and seems to be settling in for a rainy evening as we drive back to Fishing Bridge.



By the time we get back, neither one of us is feeling much like cooking so we opt for checking out the Lake Lodge for dinner. It's a wonderful old traditional lodge and we enjoy an excellent fresh trout dinner.



After dinner we head back to the Fishing Bridge RV Park. It's probably the worst RV park we've ever stayed in, especially considering the price. It's basically just a large parking lot with hookups. Each space is so narrow you can hear conversations from your neighbors (one loud mouth keep talking until almost midnight despite being told we can hear every word). Not exactly the pristine wilderness experience we were looking for.
Close quarters at Fishing Bridge

Still raining next morning

Exiting Yellowstone Park via the South Entrance

Wednesday, October 9, 2013

Yellowstone - Cody WY

The morning dawns with a day promising better weather, so we debate whether to turn southeast to Cody WY or back through Yellowstone. Since we're still smarting from not being able to find a good campsite in the park, we decide to go for Cody via the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway (WY Hwy 296).
Ahhh... this is more like it - very few people

and gorgeous scenery


Sunlight Bridge over Sunlight Creek

Classic western vistas


Overlook vista at Dead Indian Summit



Red cliffs between the summit and Cody WY



By the time we reach Cody we are starving. After checking out the town we settled on eating at the Irma Hotel restaurant, built by Buffalo Bill Cody in 1902 and is still in business today. Buffalo Bill is also responsible for establishing the town of Cody. Of course, I have to order their Buffalo Burger, a house specialty. It was great, especially with the sweet potato fries.
Visitors' Center

Irma Hotel

Inside of restaurant

Needless to say Cody WY is steeped in the legend and life of Buffalo Bill. The main attraction is the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, which is actually five museums in one. We start off in the section on Buffalo Bill, who started out as a US Army scout and buffalo hunter under contract with the Kansas Pacific railroad supplying meat to the workers.
Life sized bronze statues dot Cody

Buffalo Bill Center of the West

Buffalo hunt

I'm immediately attracted to the exhibit on saddles of the west, especially the saddle and bags used by the Wells Fargo Overland Pony Express. In fact, Buffalo Bill was one of the earliest and at age 15 the youngest Pony Express riders.

The early history of Wells Fargo is of personal interest. My great grandfather was the Wells Fargo agent in the rough early days of Cotulla TX where the railroad conductors announced the town by calling out "Cotulla! Everybody get your guns ready."
Me on a McClellan saddle

Pony Express saddle and bags

Pony Express rider

The museum follows the events of Buffalo Bill's life through his development of the Wild West Show, which started out at as a local 4th of July celebration. The show was so wildly popular it traveled over a quarter million miles including all over the globe. It even stopped in Santa Cruz and Watsonville! Considering the number of people, animals, and equipment plus the state of transportation at the time, this much travel alone is remarkable.

The most famous performance was in London for Queen Victoria. At that time the show was at the height of its popularity with such renown performers as Sitting Bull and Annie Oakley.
His Buffalo hunting coat, hat and rifles

Famous photo of Sitting Bull & Buffalo Bill

Annie Oakley's costume and guns

Large mural poster commemorating Buffalo Bill's Wild West Show performance for Queen Victoria



Authentic wagons of the west are predominately displayed.  The Deadwood - Cheyenne stagecoach is a real treat to see, especially after listening to Mark Twain's Roughing It in which he details his stage ride from St Louis MO to Carson City NV in in 1861. A long journey in one of these stages was not only dangerous but mighty uncomfortable as well. We got a big kick out of the Sheepherder's wagon as it looks like an early RV complete with a kitchen and sleeping quarters.  The cattle drive chuck wagon with branding irons is another classic. It's great to see what these wagons of the old west actually look like up close.
Deadwood - Cheyenne stagecoach

Sheepherder's Wagon

Cattle Drive Chuck Wagon

The museum complex houses a well stocked research library as well as a large lab, both used for teaching. In the lab, a wonderful set of wolves is displayed, which is probably as close as we'll get to seeing them. The center of the complex has a three story atrium with a marvelous dome on the ceiling and a tile map floor.
Wolves

Atrium ceiling

Tile floor map of the west

The Whitney Western Art Museum, which is part of the complex, has some amazing original works of famous artists, including those by Remington and Russell.
Sacagawea in garden

Grand Canyon

Yellowstone Falls

The one we get a big kick out of is "Tonto Dreams" by Rodger Jacobsen. While Tonto sleeps with the Lone Ranger nearby, trucks and cars rumble down the freeway past a Casino and Santa Fe. Tonto has a marshmallow roasting on the fire and some of his favorite things scattered nearby, including a girlie magazine entitled "Buffalo Gals", a deck of cars and gambling chips.
Tonto Dreams



Peter checks out the Cody Firearms Museum and finds a wonderful 5' tall Seri basket in the Gift Shop, which is only $7500 on special (sigh - why do I always like the expensive ones?).  That night we camp at the Ponderosa Campground, which is within easy walking distance of downtown.
Cody Firearms Museum

Giant Seri Basket

Our campsite in Cody WY


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Retired and enjoying life.