Bighorn Mountains, WY

From Devil's Tower we drop down to I-90 and then switch to Hwy 16 through Buffalo WY towards the Bighorn Mountains. The first campground we try is closed and we are wondering where to try next when UC Public CG finds us Hunter Trailhead, a horse camp close-by. Following GPS, we turn onto a winding dirt/gravel not knowing where it will lead.  Much to our surprise we end up at one of the more beautiful campgrounds we've ever seen. Who would have ever thought a horse camp could be so heavenly?

The Bighorn Mountains are ahead

Now that's a CAMPSITE!

View of Bighorn Mountains from our campsite

After setting up, we take off on foot following a well worn horse/ATV trail. Very soon we come to a rushing stream swollen with snow melt. It looks too dangerous to cross on foot and the log bridge is too rickety for my comfort. So we follow the stream for awhile and then turn back to camp for dinner.
As we are getting dinner together, a truck pulling a very long horse trailer comes up the road and  stops a few campsites over. We start wondering who they are.  We speculate they are horse trail outfitters getting ready to lead a group up into the mountains.  But then only two people unload two horses. Finally, my curiosity gets the better of me so I walk over and ask the man and woman if I can take some pictures of their horses.  Turns out they are a mother and son from Indiana, Connie and Matt. They also have never been here before and we are all in amazement at the beauty surrounding us.

I strike up a conversation with Connie. Her husband, Matt's dad, is having symptoms of Alzheimer's  Disease. She is exhausted from caretaking and Matt arranged this trail ride to give her a much needed break. They ask us if we know anything about the local trails and we tell them about short hike we just took. These trails through the Big Horn Mountains are well known by riders. I tell Connie that I've seen notices about other trail riding associations that arrange trips on other famous trails, like the Old Spanish Trail and the Oregon Trail. Her eyes light up with this possibility.

We discover we had both been horse crazy 12 year old girls bugging our parents to buy us a horse.  Connie's parents did and she has owned them ever since.  I never got a horse, but I still like them.  Connie's horse Candy is very sweet and mild mannered. Reflector, Matt's horse, is young high spirited. In fact, Reflector's original owners weren't sure he would ever be suitable for riding and were considering selling him as future dog food. Matt saw the potential in this young stallion and bought him for a bargain price. With much patience, Matt trained Reflector into to being a nice riding horse. As Matt and Connie attend to their chores, I give the last of our fresh carrots to the horses and immediately, we are best buddies.

The sky lights up with red clouds as the sun goes down and we enjoy a wonderful evening around a campfire.

The next morning dawns to lovely day.  Matt and Connie are up early getting ready for their first trail ride through the Bighorn Mountains. We go over to wish them a wonderful trip as they head out on Reflector and Candy.

Bighorns in the morning

Rear of trailer with tack

Matt on Reflector and Connie on Candy

After seeing them off, we saddle up our Ford truck and continue westward down Hwy 16 through Ten Sleep Canyon, then at the town of Ten Sleep we turn northward on a gravel road towards Medicine Lodge Archaeological Site. Yes, you can get there on a paved road, but it's always fun to take the road less traveled. Along the way we see lots of local wildlife and hardly any other vehicles.

Ten Sleep Canyon

Backside of Bighorn Mountains

Gravel road to Medicine Lodge

Pronghorn

Not so wild life

Entrance to Medicine Lodge

The Medicine Lodge site has been continuously occupied for over 10,000 years and is home to some of the oldest petroglyphs in North America. The rock art is distinctly different than any others we've ever seen before. Archaeologists are still trying to figure out all the peoples who have lived here.

Rock Art site

100+ year old graffiti

Some sort of gathering?

Some are shallowly carved

Others look almost like paintings

and others are very deeply carved.

We next stop at the hot springs in Thermopolis WY for the baths and to camp, but things don't always work out.  The Big Spring is open to the public as part of an 1896 treaty signed with the Shoshone and the Arapaho tribes. The first learn the campground at Hot Spring State Park has been closed since the publication of our guidebook. Secondly, the visibly bored lady at the information desk makes us wait several minutes until she has enough people so she doesn't have to repeat herself. Finally, she announces we can only use the facilities for 20 minutes. Yes - the spring is open to the public but only on a very limited basis.  Thermopolis does have many nearby commercial hot springs and water parks all for a price. Another treaty goes up in smoke in the face of greed.

Instead, we decide to have lunch at the Black Bear Cafe before planning our next move. Again we are treated poorly by the apathetic waitresses who can barely tear herself away from gossiping with her fellow workers. Furthermore, she acts like she is doing us a big favor by serving mediocre food.  Once again our old travel staying proves itself - "You never know what a place is like until you get there." We decide it's time to get out of Thermopolis.

We end up spending the night at Sinks Canyon State Park outside of the college town of Lander WY where we find a nice site along the Middle Popo Agie River. After setting up camp, we try out the the local trails for an evening hike.

Thermopolis hot spring

Campsite at Sinks Canyon

Trail along Popo Agie River

Popo Agie River

Meadow with wildflowers

Mule's Ears in bloom

The next day we stop in nearby Lander WY to pick up some biodegradable soap and other supplies at the Wild Iris sporting goods  store. The sales lady helping us is super nice.  When we ask about the closest laundry, she points it out and mentions we need a special debit card to use the machines.  When we look confused, she offers to let us use hers as it still has some money on it. Turns out she has enough money for us to wash and dry all of our dirty clothes. As a thank you we add enough money to her card to cover our charges plus some extra as a thank you for being so helpful.  Our experience with Lander is completely different than Themopolis. You never know what a place is like until you get there.