Wednesday, October 9, 2013

Yellowstone - Cody WY

The morning dawns with a day promising better weather, so we debate whether to turn southeast to Cody WY or back through Yellowstone. Since we're still smarting from not being able to find a good campsite in the park, we decide to go for Cody via the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway (WY Hwy 296).
Ahhh... this is more like it - very few people

and gorgeous scenery


Sunlight Bridge over Sunlight Creek

Classic western vistas


Overlook vista at Dead Indian Summit



Red cliffs between the summit and Cody WY



By the time we reach Cody we are starving. After checking out the town we settled on eating at the Irma Hotel restaurant, built by Buffalo Bill Cody in 1902 and is still in business today. Buffalo Bill is also responsible for establishing the town of Cody. Of course, I have to order their Buffalo Burger, a house specialty. It was great, especially with the sweet potato fries.
Visitors' Center

Irma Hotel

Inside of restaurant

Needless to say Cody WY is steeped in the legend and life of Buffalo Bill. The main attraction is the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, which is actually five museums in one. We start off in the section on Buffalo Bill, who started out as a US Army scout and buffalo hunter under contract with the Kansas Pacific railroad supplying meat to the workers.
Life sized bronze statues dot Cody

Buffalo Bill Center of the West

Buffalo hunt

I'm immediately attracted to the exhibit on saddles of the west, especially the saddle and bags used by the Wells Fargo Overland Pony Express. In fact, Buffalo Bill was one of the earliest and at age 15 the youngest Pony Express riders.

The early history of Wells Fargo is of personal interest. My great grandfather was the Wells Fargo agent in the rough early days of Cotulla TX where the railroad conductors announced the town by calling out "Cotulla! Everybody get your guns ready."
Me on a McClellan saddle

Pony Express saddle and bags

Pony Express rider

The museum follows the events of Buffalo Bill's life through his development of the Wild West Show, which started out at as a local 4th of July celebration. The show was so wildly popular it traveled over a quarter million miles including all over the globe. It even stopped in Santa Cruz and Watsonville! Considering the number of people, animals, and equipment plus the state of transportation at the time, this much travel alone is remarkable.

The most famous performance was in London for Queen Victoria. At that time the show was at the height of its popularity with such renown performers as Sitting Bull and Annie Oakley.
His Buffalo hunting coat, hat and rifles

Famous photo of Sitting Bull & Buffalo Bill

Annie Oakley's costume and guns

Large mural poster commemorating Buffalo Bill's Wild West Show performance for Queen Victoria



Authentic wagons of the west are predominately displayed.  The Deadwood - Cheyenne stagecoach is a real treat to see, especially after listening to Mark Twain's Roughing It in which he details his stage ride from St Louis MO to Carson City NV in in 1861. A long journey in one of these stages was not only dangerous but mighty uncomfortable as well. We got a big kick out of the Sheepherder's wagon as it looks like an early RV complete with a kitchen and sleeping quarters.  The cattle drive chuck wagon with branding irons is another classic. It's great to see what these wagons of the old west actually look like up close.
Deadwood - Cheyenne stagecoach

Sheepherder's Wagon

Cattle Drive Chuck Wagon

The museum complex houses a well stocked research library as well as a large lab, both used for teaching. In the lab, a wonderful set of wolves is displayed, which is probably as close as we'll get to seeing them. The center of the complex has a three story atrium with a marvelous dome on the ceiling and a tile map floor.
Wolves

Atrium ceiling

Tile floor map of the west

The Whitney Western Art Museum, which is part of the complex, has some amazing original works of famous artists, including those by Remington and Russell.
Sacagawea in garden

Grand Canyon

Yellowstone Falls

The one we get a big kick out of is "Tonto Dreams" by Rodger Jacobsen. While Tonto sleeps with the Lone Ranger nearby, trucks and cars rumble down the freeway past a Casino and Santa Fe. Tonto has a marshmallow roasting on the fire and some of his favorite things scattered nearby, including a girlie magazine entitled "Buffalo Gals", a deck of cars and gambling chips.
Tonto Dreams



Peter checks out the Cody Firearms Museum and finds a wonderful 5' tall Seri basket in the Gift Shop, which is only $7500 on special (sigh - why do I always like the expensive ones?).  That night we camp at the Ponderosa Campground, which is within easy walking distance of downtown.
Cody Firearms Museum

Giant Seri Basket

Our campsite in Cody WY


Thursday, October 3, 2013

Yellowstone - Wildlife

Ohhhh... looks like the campground host at Beaver Creek was right. It's raining by the time we get to West Yellowstone (the most heavily used entrance). When we stop for fuel, I ask the guy behind the counter what his take is on the weather. He points to a weather printout saying the chance of rain is only 30%. I point to the window and remark, right now it's 100%. He just laughs and says perhaps it will clear up by afternoon. Sigh - so much for the crystal clear blue skies I had imagined when thinking about this trip.

We enter Yellowstone National Park planning to head first to Indian Creek campground. Although most of the campgrounds are now reservable via concessionaires (and thus more expensive) a few are still first-come, first-served (and cheaper). It's early in the day and we've always managed to find a good campsite in Yellowstone on previous visits. Just inside the park we spot a large herd of elk in a wide grassy pasture. Our spirits lift and we hope the rainy weather won't put a damper on our visit after all.
Rain in West Yellowstone

Large herd of elk greet us just inside Yellowstone


Three does in a row

Gorgeous large male is off to one side guarding his harem


Although Indian Creek Campground isn't supposed to close until mid September, it looks like they closed it down a week early to work on it. (Sigh) - so much for that plan. We decide to head north to Mammoth Hot Springs as there's a larger campground there. 
Northward to Mammoth Hot Springs

Upper Terrace Mammoth Hot Springs

Post Office

Although the sign at the entrance of the campground claims to have open sites, we can't find any that are suitable for us. The ranger in the camp office encourages us to check back early tomorrow morning. At this point we debate about finding a campground just outside the North Entrance or checking out three other possible campgrounds in the northeastern section of Yellowstone, which is where we are more likely to see more wildlife. We decide to try and stay in the park and travel eastward to Tower Falls.
Eastward to Tower Falls

Yuck - construction zone

Yellowstone River far below construction area

Tower Falls has just filled up as we reach the campground. Looking for a campsite is getting frustrating, but we still have two campgrounds to go. As the guidebooks say, the northeast section of Yellowstone is an excellent place to see Buffalo (aka American Bison), and they do not disappoint. We see at least three herds that afternoon.
Large herd

of Buffalo

spread out over pasture.

What do the two on left have on their backs?

Magnificent large bull

Sitting Bull ?

Yup - this is definitely Buffalo territory, which includes the road itself. They certainly have right of way around here.
This one has a radio collar

This bull is walking alongside us in the RV.
He's so close we can almost touch him.


The northeastern section of Yellowstone is also known as a fly fishing mecca.  It must be fishing season as we see our share of fishermen (and women) fly casting along the waterways.  My ex-husband and his father were into fly fishing. They tried to teach me, but there's more of an art to it than it appears. The only things I ever caught were rocks and tree branches.

The fishermen appear to have filled up our last two possibilities for camping in the park. We have been shut out for tonight.
Northeast Yellowstone

Fly fishermen/women try their luck

Almost out of the park

While we're checking out a possible campground, Peter sees a male and female moose. It is rutting season and it looks like an older more mature Moose-of-the-world is courting a younger bashful virgin (our take on the situation).
When they see us watching them, the bull takes off for the privacy of the forest, while the young female hesitates for a moment or two then follows him. Guess these moose aren't the exhibitionist types.



Beside the large mammals, we also see lots of smaller critters.
Chipmunks

Jackrabbit

and more chipmunks

Of course, we would have liked to see several other of the park's famous wildlife inhabitants, but these are harder to spot. When we were kids, bears were quite commonly found along the roads begging for handouts from the tourists. Since then, the rangers have cut down on visitor/bear interactions and bears are rarely seen anymore.

I especially liked seeing the bears when my family visited when I was a kid. My father was a big shutterbug (I probably inherited it from him) and tried to take a snap of a bear wandering up to the family car. Dad was having trouble finding the bear through his lens and muttered to himself "Where's the bear? Where's the bear?" as it wandered closer and closer to him. My Dad finally looked up from his camera just when he was almost nose to nose with the bear. My brother and I never saw him move so fast as he rolled up the car window (before power windows)  and started up the engine to get out of there. My brother and I were laughing so hard saying to each over and over "Where's the bear? Where's the bear?" Needless to say, my Dad was not amused.
Black Bears (photo from Alaska Fish & Game)

Wolves (photo from Alaska Fish & Game)

Bighorn Sheep (photo from bighorn.org)

The afternoon is starting to get late by the time we exit the park via the northeastern entrance (the least used of the park's entrances).
Yellowstone's Northeast Entrance

We are back in Montana

Cooke City MT

Our campground guide lists several Forest Service campgrounds in the area, but all these have locked gates.We are beginning to get concerned about finding a nice place to camp, when we find Fox Creek Campground still open.
Fox Creek

Our home for the night

Montana must have had a wet summer

As evening approaches, we see blue skies again and hope tomorrow will be a better day.




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Retired and enjoying life.