Friday, May 6, 2016

Akaroa, New Zealand

After coming out of the mountains we follow NZ Hwy 1 along the coastal plain northward towards Christchurch. Around Christchurch, we drive one of the few four lane highways in New Zealand and encounter  more traffic than usual. Before reaching Christchurch proper we turn off on Hwy 75 towards the Banks Peninsula and Akaroa, a popular resort town once settled by the French and still retains its distinctly French character.
KiwiRail on flat coastal plain

Viator Tour bus tour from Christchurch?


After threading our way between farms, we are soon back on a classic New Zealand narrow winding road, where we meet classic critters - sheep. Actually, we've seen fewer sheep than we expected as not as many are grown for wool as in the past.  In fact, the most common sheep now raised are a hybrid best for meat. With the increasing costs of shearing sheep and sending the the wool to China to be cleaned (an ecologically messy process), New Zealand sheep are now mostly grown for their meat.
Back to narrow winding roads

Shade loving sheep


About half way, we pass through the small town of Little River home of the unique Silo Stays Accommodations.



After the summit, it's all downhill into Akaroa. As the road twists and turns we get amazing views of the town and its sheltered harbor.
Akaroa and its sheltered bay



We get good campsites at the Akaroa Top 10 Holiday Park with it's magnificent views of the harbor and town. A woman traveling alone from Chicago is camped next door to us.  We ask her how traveling by herself in New Zealand has been. She says she loves it as it much safer than Chicago. Actually, we've met a number of women traveling alone and they all have said the same thing.

After we settle in we are quickly visited by a family of ducks consisting of a female Mallard and her ducklings. They are so cute, we all give in to the temptation and feed the ducks, thereby teaching them bad habits at an early age.

Since there's still several hours of light left in the day, we hike down to the town.
Ducklings scramble for bread crumbs

View of Akaroa from campground

Nice bench by harbor

Akaroa lives up to its reputation of being a charming town with a distinctly French flavor.  Jill and I are pleasantly surprised to find most clothing prices are lower in Akaroa than many other towns we've visited. Although, the store selling fine European lace clothing was not at all cheap. We also find a small trailer with a woman selling fresh crepes and a wonderful old fashioned sweet shop. The candy is tempting, but it's not on my diet. However, the ginger/lemon ice cream is another matter.  It's low calorie, right?
Fresh crepes for sale

Candies tempt sweet-tooths


As the light fades, we wander into the downtown park, complete with it's WWI memorial (odd we don't see as many WWII Memorials).  These are quite common in New Zealand. We also discover a wonderful bronze statue of an artist painting an empty canvas.  The guys love posing as the art piece being created.
WWI Memorial

Artist works on Mark

then Peter

By the time we start back up the hill, which seems steeper than when we walked down, it's almost dark.  Good thing we brought headlamps with us as the trail is getting really hard to see.
Sunset at Akaroa - are those clouds on the horizon?



Sure enough, the next day is gray and rainy. So we scrap our plans to stay another night and continue our drive northward towards Nelson.

Tuesday, May 3, 2016

Mt John Observatory & Lake Tekapo, New Zealand

After returning to Wanaka from Milford Sound, we are back on the road to Omarama. As much as we enjoyed Wanaka, our time is ticking down and we need to start back northward, besides the idea of soaking in the local hot tubs is very appealing. The terrain becomes much dryer, almost desert like, as we drive northward on NZ Hwy 8. Maybe we're in a rain shadow caused by Southern Alps.
Much dryer with less vegetation here

Looks like parts of the American Southwest


The main geological feature we see is the Omarama Clay Cliffs. Although these cliffs are on private land, the public can visit by paying an entrance fee.  As the day is getting late, we don't stop and press on instead.
Omarama Clay Cliffs
We stay at the Omarama Top 10 Holiday Park, which is only about a half mile walk away from the hot tubs. That evening we are simply too tired to make it to the hot tubs.  The next morning Peter finds the trampoline and releases his inner child. This park, as well as many others in New Zealand, is home to a large flock of camp ducks. New Zealand does not have native squirrels or chipmunks inhabiting campgrounds begging and stealing food from campers. However, ducks have dutifully filled this ecological niche.  Even though all holiday parks post signs warning campers not to feel the ducks, it's hard to resist a mother with ducklings.


Peter Pan flies again

Careful with the family jewels

Ohhh - but the duck is hungry

Despite our initial intention to visit the hot tubs, we pass and get back on the road to give us more time at Lake Tekapo and Mt. John Observatory. People tell us we've passed up some great hot tubs. On this day's drive we pass several of New Zealand's many lakes.
Fish farm on an lake

Mountains and trees reflect in the still waters of this lake


Our next stop is at the lookout at Lake Pukaki, which is another long glacial lake but with the added feature of views of Mount Cook on the far shore. We park at Peter's Lookout where there is a large parking lot and visitor center popular with tour buses.
Mount Cook on the far shore of Lake Pukaki



Aoraki/Mount Cook is New Zealand's most famous peak. Standing at 12,218 feet, it is a favorite of mountain climbers worldwide. Sir Edmund Hillary is said to have used Mount Cook as a training ground for his and the Sherpa Tenzing Norgay's first ascent of Mount Everest, which culminated on the summit in May 29, 1953.
Aoraki/Mount Cook


Several busloads of Asian tourists are also at Peter's Lookout, most like us are busily taking photos.  We get a kick out of some of the goofy shots they take.




We arrange for two campsites at the Lake Tekapo Motels & Holiday Park, which affords panoramic vistas of Lake Tekapo. The wildflowers are blooming profusely along the shoreline. Jill and I can't resist their sirens' call.



Spring lupines at Lake Tekapo



With our campsites settled, we take the short but narrow (as in one lane) drive up to the University of Canterbury's Mt John Observatory.  Night tours can be booked through Earth & Sky in the town of Lake Tekapo, but we have driven up to take in the amazing 360 degree views.
Mount John Observatory


View towards the town of Tekapo on the right



View towards Southern Alps with access road to the Observatory



The views are well worth the long winding road up; although, we do hope we don't meet any large vehicles on a steep section on our way down. The Astro Cafe at the summit comes highly recommended, so of course we have to try it. I have an "iced coffee" which is made with vanilla ice cream. Totally tasty and not at all on my diet. As with many places in New Zealand, we meet people from around the world at the Cafe. We exchange taking photos with some newlyweds from Amsterdam.
This is a great place to take photos

Astro Cafe

Fearsome foursome

Later, back at camp we are treated to stunning sunset show.
Ahhh - this is the way to camp

Gorgeous - simply gorgeous


Lake Tekapo and Southern Alps at sunset



Needless to say, we are far from the only people taking photos during this sunset. As the sky behind us lights up, I motion to a Chinese couple to look at the sky and not just at the lake. At first, they don't understand, then they finally look up and big delighted smiles cover their faces. Looks like photographers all around the world speak a common visual language.
Sky lights up behind the campground

Peter catches the moon


The cold winds at night have wiped the skies clear by early morning. Steve from The Shot is the early bird catching a good business from us and from the other campers. After checking out, we visit the nearby Tekapo Springs for massages and to soak in their hot pools. Hey - it's a tough life but somebody has to do it. 
Steve from The Shot fires up his espresso machine

good to the last drop

View of lake from Tekapo Springs

By the time we reach the spa, the weather is already doing its quick change act again. Dressing in layers and having additional clothes within easy reach is the only comfortable way to deal with the constantly changing weather. One moment it's sunny and warm and the next - freezing. Still the water's fine in the hot pools so none of us really mind the cold rain.
The hot pools at Tekapo Springs




Monday, April 25, 2016

Milford Sound, New Zealand

A bus at the Milford Sound Airport takes us to the dock for the cruise portion of the tour.
Welcome to Milford Sound

Milford dock - Mitre Peak is on the right


We quickly find our boat and climb on board. Since we are some of the first to board, we grab seats just inside the bow.
Ah - there's our boat for the cruise

Boarding


It's such an amazingly beautiful day. Even the local crews are telling us weather this nice is rare and we are extremely lucky to be here on such a day. Looks like the word got out as all the boats are full of other lucky tourists such as ourselves.



From the dock, we head down the sound towards the Tasman Sea.
The colors on this day are stunning

Another plane flys in

Me & Jill enjoying a spot of tea

It's so nice out that soon we are all out on deck busily snapping photos and pointing out the sights.
A fellow passenger snaps a photo of the "The Lion" - the large rock formation in the middle



As we move down the sound, we see many waterfalls cascading over the steep granite sides, which were carved out by glaciers.
There's one straight ahead

Up close and personal to a

bridal veil type falls

Further along, the captain points out a colony of endangered New Zealand fur seals.
NZ fur seal colony

Most are snoozing in the sun

but a few are socializing after a swim


These little guys are Fiordland crested penguins or Tawaki, one of the rarest species in New Zealand



The water is so calm today, the captain takes us all the way out into the Tasman Sea before turning back. He tells us they rarely venture out so far as usually the seas are running so high they have to stay deeper in the protected sound.
Heading out towards the Tasman Sea

where we see a large flock of sea birds

before turning back into the sound

YES! We are having fun now.




It's hard not to keep snapping photos to preserve this day




On the way back to the dock, our captain takes us close to a high waterfall.  As the sun is now lower in the sky, we are in the shade with sun beams pouring over the top... but the captain doesn't stop and  guides the bow right under the falls. All of us snapping photos in the bow scramble into the cabin to escape the freezing torrent.
Top of tall waterfall

Closer still

Yikes! Glad to be inside behind glass

The whole crew is probably laughing hard at our reactions to their "Glacier Facial" surprise; however, we tend to think of it more as a "soak the tourists."  Looking back at the waterfall as we pull away, we see two more boats lined up for the same soaking.  The water was cold, but it was all in good fun. I'm just happy my camera's fine. On our way back to the dock, we pass a beautiful horsetail type falls.
Boats line up for their "Glacial Facial"

Horsetail type falls

On our way back to the dock

The afternoon is still so nice, I dawdle on the dock before entering the Visitors Center and then finding our bus back to the airport.
Debarking

Boats returning to dock

large jade stone in Visitor Center

Outside the Visitors Center lots of buses are lined up, as several backpacker groups are returning from hiking the Milford Track. The hikers we meet speak glowingly of their experiences on the trail.
Looks like several camper vans have driven the long distance in

Waiting to board our flight back to Wanaka


To tell you the truth, I was a bit skeptical before coming on this tour as we heard so much about how wonderful Milford Sound is that I was concerned it was over-hyped.  No longer.  Yes - I realize we are extremely lucky to have seen it on such a idyllic day. Still, this day ranks as one of the best in my lifetime.




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Retired and enjoying life.