Along for the ride: Dawson City, Yukon

As we reach the outskirts of Dawson, it's hard to miss the mounds and mounds of rocky soil that coil around like giant worms. It's the tailings from all the intensive mining activity that's gone on in the area for over a century now. Those miners really left no stone left unturned in the mad rush to find all the gold.

Google Earth Photo of the mining tailings from the air

Statue commemorating the
early miners

We get settled in the only RV park directly in town - the Gold Rush Campground, which is run by a very nice couple from Vancouver BC, and meet some of our fellow neighbors in the park.

Gold Rush Campground

Mr Jiggs from Illnois
who likes to sit in the driver's seat

The park is filled with some pretty intrepid travelers. Parked right next to us is a large RV from Austria. The woman speaks a little English, but the man does not. I managed to engage the man in a sign language conversation and he says they have been traveling for 180 days and covered over 30,000 Kilometers. They started by shipping their RV from Hamburg, Germany to Buenos Aires, they then drove to Terra del Fuego and up the Pan American Hwy, through South and Central America, Mexico, Arizon, New Mexico, San Francisco, BC, and now to Dawson. They plan to go back to the US and drive across to Washington DC where they'll ship the RV and themselves back to Hamburg. Wow - and we thought we were going on an extra-ordinary trip!

This Earth Explorer can go just about anywhere

Pan American traveler from Austria

Dawson has some wonderfully restored old buildings (and others still awaiting restoration) from it's heyday during the Gold Rush when the population swelled to over 40,000 residents (current population is only around 2,000). Here are some of our favorites of these old buildings.

Classic sod roofed log cabin

Westminster Hotel

Catholic Church

Midnight Sun Hotel

Yukon Saw Mill

Red Feather Saloon

Yukon Queen (being restored)

After wandering around to get the layout of the town, we decide to visit the Jack London cabin and Museum where an Interpretative Presentation is being held. The woman giving the presentation does a marvelous job of making Jack London's time in the Yukon come alive, including his struggles as a miner and early writer. We were surprised to learn he sold the manuscript for Call of the Wild to McMillan for a few thousand dollars, which helped McMillan establish itself as a major publisher. Bet that was the last time he didn't negotiate any royalties.

Cabin that Jack London lived it

Pretty sparse living quarters were shared with two others

Next we visit Robert Service's cabin just a few blocks away. It was fun comparing the different lifestyles of these two authors. Needless to say, Robert Service had a more comfortable life in the Yukon than did Jack London.

Robert Service's cabin

His writing desk

and bedroom.

We then go to the Dawson City Museum which gives us an even better glimpse into what people's lives were like during the gold rush era.

Dawson City Museum


Opulant statue for those striking it rich

Reenactment of a Miner's Meeting
an early form of justice before the Mounties

As far as the local restaurants, we have a hit and a miss. Avoid Sourdough Joe's overpriced and mediocre food. On the other hand, be both really enjoyed Klondike Kate's (an infamous Madam) for both the ambiance and great food. On their patio was a large map of the world on which their clientele had placed pins for where they came from to Dawson. It was pretty fun to see how many people of all of the world had come there, including from the Canary Islands. However, most people tend to be from Canada, Germany/Europe, and the US.

Klondike Kate's

Waiting for our lunch orders to arrive

Where people come from to Klondike Kate's

The folks at the Gold Rush Campground recommend we try Tommy's Fishwheel Charter Services run by a Tommy Taylor, a Native Han, who gives tours about his tribe's traditional lifestyles. That afternoon we meet Tommy down by the docks. He takes us down the Yukon in his fishing skiff.

The two different waters of the Yukon (muddy)
and the Klondike (clear/dark) just below confluence

Peter acts as First Mate for Tommy

Tommy first takes us by his Native tribe's summer camp - Moosehide, a neat village only accessible by river during the summers. He also points out the steam ship graveyard where the remains of at least three steamers lay on the banks of the Yukon. Oddly, but just about that time the Keno, Dawson's only restored riverboat, steams by.

Moosehide - the Han's summer camp

Riverboat graveyard

The SS Keno

Tommy then shows us his fish wheel, originally invented in China, but adapted throughout the Pacific Northwest all the way up to Alaska, Canada, and the Yukon. Because of the low runs of salmon in recent years, only the Native Peoples are allowed to fish for salmon in this manner.

Tommy's Fish Wheel

Chute on paddle to
capture fish

Today Tommy catches
2 salmon and 5 tourists

Tommy next takes us to his summer camp where yesterday's salmon are being smoked. Then shortly afterwards he shows us his winter home. All in all, we really enjoy Tommy tour and highly recommend it to anyone visiting the Yukon.

Smoke house

Sled dog area

Winter cabin

Since there's no bridge over the Yukon at Dawson, the government operates a seasonal (when the river's not frozen) ferry for free. It's truly amazing what kind of vehicles this little ferry will transport across the Yukon.

A large fuel tanker truck gets on the ferry

A big Princess Cruses bus gets off the ferry

Our Navion IQ waits to cross the Yukon

At lunch we learn several large RV caravans are in town and planning to leave in the morning. A couple in one of the caravans tell us their leader warned them to get up early as the ferry wait can be 4 to 6 hours. Ouch! That's more than we want to experience, so we pack up for our last night to spend it in the government campground across the river, avoiding the morning ferry rush.