Nicaragua - San Juan del Sur & Granada

After spending our first day at sea, we arrive at San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua. There seems to be some debate about the statue at the entrance of the harbor... it's either of Jesus or the patron saint San Juan.  Although the white caps are rolling as we arrive, by the time we reach the docks, it's clear and sunny.

Port of San Juan del Sur with statue on hill

Landing on the dock on the tender

We then board a tour bus for Granada, the old colonial capital established by the Spanish in 1524. Just outside of San Juan, we spot monkeys in the trees next to the road. Both our guide and bus driver pull over so we can all watch and take pictures of them cavorting in the trees.

One capuchin monkey

Two capuchin monkeys cavort in the branches

We soon reach the shores of Lake Nicaragua, the largest lake in Central America. During the early 1900's the US Congress debated building a canal connecting the Pacific and Atlantic oceans across either Nicaragua through this lake or across the Isthmus of Panama.  In 1902 the Nicaraguan volcano Momotombo erupted and a postage stamp was created commemorating the event. Proponents of the Panama Canal distributed copies of the stamps with a list of all of Nicaragua's volcanoes to the US Congress. Needless to say, the Panama route won the vote. However, debate still continues to this day about a possible canal through Nicaragua. Backers from China and/or Russia are considering an alternative canal while environmentalists argue to keep the lake's waters clean as a valuable natural resource.

One of two volcanic islands in Lake Nicaragua

Snowy Egrets on the beach

Wind generations on the shore

We pass a typical fruit stand along the road and Erick, our guide stops to gather local fruits for us to taste.You'll notice in the photo below, Erick is wearing a jade necklace. The pendant is Nicaraguan pre-Columbian jade that an archeologist friend gave him.

Roadside fruit stand

Erick, our guide

Erick shows us a fruit used to make maracas

Soon we enter Granada and park along the main square or Central Park, which is lined with horse drawn carriages for rent.

Granada's Central Park

Granada itself has wonderfully restored colonial buildings. Many housing restaurants, hotels and museums. Although, some of the buildings have a markedly more modern feel.

Music store on Penny Lane with John Lennon images

We stop for coffee and snacks at the lovely Hotel Plaza Colon and enjoy the local street scene.

Lilly's Cafe in Hotel Plaza Colon

A cashew vendor

Street eats

After our coffee break, we walk to the Cathedral of Granada. It's a magnificant example of colonial architecture.

Not far along the Central Park is the Governor's Palace, which now houses a museum.  We then stroll over to the Convent of San Francisco (which was actually a monastery, not a convent).

Governor's Palace

Walking streets of Granada

Convent of San Francisco

View of Cathedral from Convent

Inner courtyard of Convent

with historical murals

A pre-Columbian art museum, housed in the rear of the Convent, has a fascinating display of stone statues. Unfortunately, very little is known about these statues.
Lunch is served at the Garden Cafe. Our tables are along a beautiful inner garden.

Garden fountain

Dick and Ellyn from Oregon

Nadine from Brussels

After lunch we use our free time to explore the Museum of Pre-Columbian Archaeological Ceramics, which is housed in the former home of the archaeologist who assembled the collection.

We stroll back through the Central Park

By the International Hostel

to the Museum of Pre-Columbian Archaeological Ceramics

One of three inner courtyards in the former home

Peter's favorite

Looks like an owl on this bowl

The collection contains several odd large slipper shaped pots. We learn later they are ossaries, containers for human bones.

Typical pre-Columbian Ossary

Utilitarian pottery

I wouldn't want to stick my hand in this pot

We meet back up with the tour bus, which takes us tour boats on the lake to see some of the hundreds of islands that dot the lake close to the shoreline. Many of these island have individual vacation homes, restaurants and hotels on them.

Vacation home of one of Nicaragua's wealthiest families

Macaw at an island restaurant

Ohhh... we like this one.

One island is solely inhabited by monkeys who are used to being feed about the time we cruise by. They are very interested in our boats.

Where's our dinner?

Hummmph - stingy tourists

No food - no show

Erick picks pod off an overhanging branch and asks Ellyn to slowly stroke it. As she does, the pod bursts open revealing a really unusual flower.

Flower from pod

Ellyn and her flower

The boat heads back to shore with a volcano as backdrop

Some of the canals between the islands are so narrow that not even our shallow drafts can navigate them. All too soon our tour ends and we return to the Star Flyer

See any crocodiles?

Star Flyer at sunset

San Juan del Sur in the magic hour

That evening several young dancers entertain us on board with traditional dances of Nicaragua.
Nicaragua was an unexpected pleasure. We thoroughly enjoyed the slower pace of life, natural beauty, and the people we met. Who knows, we might even make it back some day.