Havana Vieja Cuba

We're up early the next morning and are happy to see a bit of sunshine.

Good Morning Jon

Cloudy with bits of sunshine

Up on rooftop floor, we are treated with sweeping vistas of Havana. While there we meet a gay male couple from California. They entered Cuba via Mexico without any hotel reservations since they couldn't reserve using US credit cards. They were horrified to discover how scarce decent hotel rooms are and were forced to stay in a "flea bag." After a few days, they were relieved to finally secure a room in the Saratoga. Thank you Jon for arranging our rooms months ago.

Capitol building modeled after the US

School kids playing on a rooftop recess

Back on the bus, I snap shots of everyday life on the streets. Many Cubans are running small businesses out of their homes to supplement their government salaries.
 Our first stop is a cigar factory.  Unfortunately, no cameras are allowed. This cigar factory started in 1842 and they make cigars for several different brands.  The work is repetitive and without ergonomic work stations. Generally a cigar roller's career only lasts 5-8 years after spending 9 months being training. Training is competitive as only about 30% of trainees are offered full time positions.
The perks of cigar rolling are generally good pay and cigars. Each roller can smoke cigars for as long as they are rolling and can take an additional 5 home each day.

The cigar rolling is an art - the inner core is of mixed leaves, each chosen for their individual qualities of combustion, aroma, or flavor. Once the core is assembled, each cigar is wrapped twice - first to contain the inner core and second to finish the cigar.  Although the tobacco is grown all over Cuba, all the cigars themselves are sold to the Cuban government.

Back on the bus, we are thankful for Jose's excellent driving as he winds through crowded narrow streets.

Pink convertible Taxi

Narrow streets

Cuban wiring exposed by crumbling masonary

Our next stop is a walking tour of Havana Vieja (Old Havana). On the way we pass by the excavated foundations of the original Spanish settlement. I'm fascinated by the use of old cannons as street barricades. Cannon collectors in the US would give their eye teeth for one of these.

Original foundations of Spanish Havana

Cannon as street barrier

Street in Havana Vieja

Along the way, we meet an one armed newspaper seller who seems to be the Pied Piper for the local street dogs. I wonder how he manages with just one arm. Later I find out the hard way.  We are surprised to find none of the dogs have been neutered or spayed. Cuba doesn't have our equivalent of a Humane Society.

Streets crowded with foreign tourists

One armed newspaper vendor

Street dogs put on a show

Cuba is full of beautiful old colonial buildings, many of which have been declared World Heritage Sites; however, renovating these ancient buildings is expensive and government funds only go so far. Still we do see many buildings being renovated, especially in the old section.

Worker re-plastering and painting an exterior

Colonial in Old Havana

Musicians with their hats out for tips

Old Havana is a magnet to tourists. Cubans catering to foreign visitors, are all happy to provide lots of photo ops for a CUC or two.

Lori poses with a puppy

Ladies in period dress await customers in horse drawn carriages

Barbara also takes advantage of this photo op

Renovated or not, the buildings in Havana Vieja are beautiful just as they stand. Of course, the queen of them all is the Havana Cathedral.

Balcony on colonial building

Peter dwarfed by the Cathedral doors

Havana Cathedral

Inside the Havana Cathedral I love the architecture of Old Havana including such details as mailboxes and arched doorways leading to inner gardens.

Mailbox

Doorway to garden

Mailbox

Below are several people standing about the main square. One is a famous flamenco dancer and the others... well not so famous. Can you tell which is which?
The time passes so quickly it's soon lunch at the Cafe El Mercurio. They have a wonderful bar that makes excellent drinks and the food is good; however, the service leaves a bit to be desired. The wait staff completely forgets to bring the orders for both John and Peter. Meylin did not let this oversight slide -  those were quickest two orders of Cuban sandwiches delivered.

Outdoor seating at Cafe El Mercurio

John with his daiquiri

Bar at Cafe El Mercurio

After lunch, Meylin patiently cat herds us back to the bus.

Meylin gathering the group

Adam as Dr Evil with his GoPro

Eli models her new Cuban hat

Next are tours of art galleries. Sandra has fallen in love with Cuba and wants to take up residence. Next to our first gallery is a lovely home for sale - perfect for Sandra.  Unfortunately, the Cuban government takes a dim view of foreigners buying property. Too bad, it's really a cute house. Our first gallery displays pieces with a Cuban sense of humor. As much as we'd like one, the prices are exorbitant.

A new home for Sandra?

Earth as Rubik's Cube

High heeled Harley ?

Tsunami batter up

Playboy Bunny as sculpture & poster

The US and Cuba call out to each other

We next stop at the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes de La Habana (National Museum of Fine Arts of Havana).  If you only have time to visit one gallery, this is the one to see. Although we arrive shortly before closing, an English speaking guide gives us a quick tour. We just have enough time to sneak into the Museum Store as the doors are closing. Peter and I purchase a large signed print by Sosabravo, a well known Cuban artist. Since the Cuban government subsides many of the artists, they are required to donate a percentage of their work to be sold in government stores, usually at below-market prices.

Bas-relief at entrance

As coffee drinkers, we love this house of old espresso pots

Armless Cuban lovers

As we start back to the hotel, the rain starts again and by the time we reach the Saratoga, it's pouring. Upon stepping onto the sidewalk from the bus, I trip and land shoulder first onto the concrete. I brush myself off thinking it wasn't too bad even though my right shoulder hurts - jammed perhaps? Later while dressing for dinner, I find my right arm is almost completely paralyzed. Alarmed, we ask Meylin to take us to a medical clinic.

Hotel Saratoga on a rainy afternoon

Caution slippery surfaces

One armed self portrait

Within 30 minutes of walking into the clinic, I am examined by two orthopedic MDs, x-rayed, and given their diagnosis - a minor fracture to my upper arm bone at the shoulder. Meylin then collects my passport, visa, and return ticket home for the clerk to process my medical insurance which is part of our Cuban visa fees. It takes the clerk over an hour to reach the appropriate bureaucrat for the necessary approvals. Bureaucrats are bureaucrats no matter which country you are in.

Once back home,  I see our family doctor to approve PT (Physical Therapy, aka Physical Torture). He orders another four x-rays and comes to exactly the same conclusion and recommendations as the Cuban doctors. After several weeks of PT and months of healing, I am more or less back to normal. Although this close personal encounter with Cuban medicine was unplanned, I can safely say Cuban medicine easily lives up to it's reputation.
 
That evening, I do make it to dinner but am feeling a bit green around the gills as these photos attest:

The bus drops me back at the hotel, while the rest of the group go on to see the remaining members of the Buena Vista Social Club at Cafe Taberna. Peter takes these photos:

Cafe Taberna

Lead singer

Maida Mitchell

The Cuban dancers get members of our group to join them.

Cuban dancer with John

Cuban Dancers

Christy with a dancer

For a better idea of this music and a glimpse into Cuban culture, watch the YouTube video below. It starts out a little slow, but hang in there as it's worth seeing.