For the second part of our stay in Kauai, we have booked a cottage on the north shore. As we drive up along the eastern shore through Lihue, past the Wailua River, and Kapaa, we stop at any interesting beaches we spot along the way.
Once on the north shore we are immediately attracted to the American GothicWai'oli Hui'ia Church. It was established by American Christian missionaries in 1834 and is the oldest surviving church on the island of Kauai. It is a truly beautiful church and well worth a stop.
The beauty of Kauai's north shore can not be disputed. We are lucky to be visiting during such gorgeous weather. Although the north shore is less populated, the few roads are surprisingly crowded.
Taro fields and mountains of Kauai's north shore
Our cottage is towards the end of the Kuhio Hwy in Ha'ena, not far from the end of the road. It takes us a few tries before we actually find it. GPS on the north shore is an approximate art form. The cottage is Hawaiian funky, but it is also spacious and comfortable besides it is located within steps of the beach.
Our home for the next few days
Funky but mostly functional kitchen
Our bedroom
Suzy checks out the guide books in the great room
After getting settled in, we immediately head for the beach to check it out.
That evening we take a Hula lesson from Primrose and her husband Randy on the Cliffs at Princeville. They are wonderful teachers and encourage us in our attempts to learn this graceful art form. Of course one of the songs we learn to hula to is "Beautiful Kauai." Surprisingly, despite our many trips to Hawaii, this is Peter and my very first hula lesson. It's a lot of fun and certainly well worth repeating.
Looking down from the cliffs
Relaxing after hula
Humm - that was fun
The next day we are out looking for adventure. In the morning we go to Ha'ena State Park, at the very end of the Kuhio Hwy. In fact, the steep Na Pali Coastline makes road building any further, a true challenge for even the best engineers and well funded governments. Both Peter and Jamie take off hiking the Kalalu Trail in search of a storied waterfall, while Suzy and I hang out on the beach before starting off on our own adventure.
Peter and I hiked the Kalalu Trail when we first visited Kauai in the the 1980's. We got caught in a downpour and had to turn back when the streams became impassable torrents of water. The guys have much better weather today and should be able to make their destination without any problems.
Kicking back at Ha'ena Beach
Ok - ok my last chicken pic - I promise
Peter and Jamie look back at Ha'ena Beach as they ascend the trail
Then they go down to the beach. Although the beach is beautiful and the water inviting they heed the warnings about not going into the water. The dangerous currents have already claimed enough lives.
Refreshed, they head back on the trail to meet up with Suzy and me.
While the guys are hiking, Suzy and I go exploring at the Limahuli Garden and Preserve. This garden is arranged in three sections. The oldest section displays what Kauai looked like before human contact. The next section displays many of the plants brought over the island during the establishment of the Polynesian culture. The last section shows how Kauai looks today with additional plant species introduced since contact with the outside world.
The Makana Mountain ridge forms a spectacular backdrop to the gardens. The most predominate peak is Makana Mountain, which was featured in the 1958 version of the movie South Pacific as Bali Ha'i. Makana is also known as "Fireworks Cliff." To celebrate special occasions, skilled firethrowers would climb the mountain with dry logs of papala. After nightfall, they would set the logs afire and throw them towards the ocean. Updrafts would hold the logs aloft some drifting as far out as a mile over the ocean. To our modern eyes, it may not sound very special, but to the early Polynesians without electric lighting, the sight of fire and sparks being held aloft must have been quite a show.
Entrance to Limahuli
Makana Mountain (on right)
Native palm
Polynesian section with terraced fields of taro for making poi
After meeting back up with the guys, we spend the afternoon at Tunnels Beach, which is famous for snorkeling. I never thought I would say this, but snorkeling here really makes me miss the Big Island. The corals here are suffering from too many tourists standing on them and the reef fish have been hunted so much they are few and far between.
Peter and Suzy kick back in the shade at Tunnels Beach
Our next stop is the Kilauea Lighthouse and Wildlife Refuge. This lighthouse was built in the early 1900's of the then revolutionary material of reinforced concrete. Situated on top of a high cliff the government was able to save money by not having to build a very tall building. Long used for both marine and air navigation, its light can be seen as far out as 90 miles at sea. Now an unmanned light station it has been expanded into a wildlife refuge for the many sea birds nesting on the cliffs below.
View west from the lighthouse towards Na Pali coast
Later, we watch local children play as we wait for a snack. They are much more outdoor kids than our mainland couch potatoes glued to phones, computers, and TVs.
Afterwards, we drive to Marc Zuckerberg's Kauai estate. He has angered many of the locals by walling off his property thereby cutting off public access to popular fishing and swimming beaches. The locals have a legitimate complaint as all beaches are legally public in Hawaii. Property owners are legally obligated to provide public access. Just shows you what you can get away with if you have enough money.
Our big splurge dinner is at the Tahiti Nui in Hanalei. It appeared in a scene in the 2011 film The Decendants. Keli'i Kaneali'i, the original singer in the band Hapa, is playing here tonight with his wife who is dancing the hula. We are rewarded for coming early by getting a corner table with a good view of the evening's entertainment. We thoroughly enjoy ourselves making for an evening we will long remember.
Beautiful flowers and photos! <3 - Tera
ReplyDeletePrimrose utube magnificent. Anxiously await your hula video. Also, the nene is far more glam than I had imagined. Anne
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