Nez Perce Country

Wikipedia - Original Nez Perce territory (green) and
the current reduced reservation of 1883 (brown)

June 2017

Although we have already been traveling through Nez Perce country when checking out Idaho's Wilderness Rivers, we will now take a closer look at their original territory as we continue to explore this area.

The Lewis and Clark Expedition first encountered the tribe in 1805. Their interactions were positive even though language difficulties hampered their ability to communicate.  Still they ended up staying with the tribe for several weeks, trading for food and horses.

With a population of around around 12,000, the Nez Perce was the largest tribe in the Columbia River Plateau. They were hunter-gathers living in a mix of permanent  and seasonal settlements.

In the late 1800's, the Nez Perce were split into two groups under pressure from the US Government. One group submitted to relocation to a reservation, while the other group lead by Chief Joseph, looked for sanctuary elsewhere.  They were relentlessly pursued by the US Army and were forced to surrender to General Oliver O. Howard only miles from the safety of the Canadian border. As part of their surrender Chief Joseph made one of the most famous speeches in American history in which he said:

"... Hear me, my chiefs, I am tired. My heart is sick and sad.
From where the sun now stands, I will fight no more forever."

 From Clarkston/Lewiston, we take Hwy 129 climbing up onto the plateau above the Snake River.
The winding road takes us through spectacular scenery. Once on top, we stop at the Joseph Canyon Viewpoint. It is believed that Chief Joseph was born in this canyon.

The long and winding road

Turn off to Viewpoint

Joseph Canyon

Heading south we cross the boarder into Oregon and are treated with views of the spectacular Wallowa Mountains. No wonder the Nez Perce lived here, the country is amazing and must have supported abundant fish and game.

These sheep find the grass greener next to the road

Rich farm and ranch lands

Joseph OR where Chief Joseph is buried

We are camping at Wallowa State Park. The views as we approach the campground reminds us of a mini Banff and Lake Louise.

Wallowa Lake with the Wallowa Mountains

Lake Wallowa from the campground marina

As much as we love this area and would like to stay longer, we have a deadline to meet getting home. Sigh - we'll be back another time.

One last look at Lake Wallowa

From Joseph OR we drive east on Hwy 350 and then south on Forest Service Roads and Homestead Road to Hells Canyon Overlook. As we read the informational plaques at the overlook we are surprised to learn Hells Canyon (7900') is actually deeper than the Grand Canyon (6100'). The Nez Perce were the first residents of the canyon. Only slowly did the white man (and women) explore this formidable canyon. One first hand account described in the book Astoria: John Jacob Astor and Thomas Jefferson's Lost Pacific Empire gives a hair raising tale of a lost expedition's struggle with famine, disease, and injuries as they desperately search for a way out. Much like Death Valley, the canyon got its name from the misfortunes of early explorers.

Driving south on Forest Service roads

Hells Canyon Overlook

Parked at overlook

Expansive views of the canyon

Nice picnic area

Wildflowers

dot the hillsides

A little further south we meet up with Hwy 86 and turn southwest towards Halfway OR skirting the southern edge of the Wallowa Mountains. Even though it's a little drier on the southern slope, the ranch lands are still lush and beautiful.
We stop for lunch at the Main Place Bar and Grill in Halfway and enjoy a great meal.  Peter loves his chocolate milk shake.  He profusely thanks the waitress and she is thrilled to learn, that he even took a photo of it. Halfway is really a cute town and again we would like to stay longer, but we have to move on.

Parked in Halfway OR

Peter's chocolate shake

Guard dogs on gate posts

Back on the road traveling westward, we continue to pass ranches for awhile and then the road climbs higher towards the drier John Day region of Oregon. As an interesting footnote, John Day was one of the survivors on the ill fated Overland Expedition for John Jacob Astor's Pacific Fur Company that got trapped in Hells Canyon.