Nicaragua - San Juan del Sur & Granada

After spending our first day at sea, we arrive at San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua. There seems to be some debate about the statue at the entrance of the harbor... it's either of Jesus or the patron saint San Juan.  Although the white caps are rolling as we arrive, by the time we reach the docks, it's clear and sunny.

Port of San Juan del Sur with statue on hill

Landing on the dock on the tender

We then board a tour bus for Granada, the old colonial capital established by the Spanish in 1524. Just outside of San Juan, we spot monkeys in the trees next to the road. Both our guide and bus driver pull over so we can all watch and take pictures of them cavorting in the trees.

One capuchin monkey

Two capuchin monkeys cavort in the branches

We soon reach the shores of Lake Nicaragua, the largest lake in Central America. During the early 1900's the US Congress debated building a canal connecting the Pacific and Atlantic oceans across either Nicaragua through this lake or across the Isthmus of Panama.  In 1902 the Nicaraguan volcano Momotombo erupted and a postage stamp was created commemorating the event. Proponents of the Panama Canal distributed copies of the stamps with a list of all of Nicaragua's volcanoes to the US Congress. Needless to say, the Panama route won the vote. However, debate still continues to this day about a possible canal through Nicaragua. Backers from China and/or Russia are considering an alternative canal while environmentalists argue to keep the lake's waters clean as a valuable natural resource.

One of two volcanic islands in Lake Nicaragua

Snowy Egrets on the beach

Wind generations on the shore

We pass a typical fruit stand along the road and Erick, our guide stops to gather local fruits for us to taste.You'll notice in the photo below, Erick is wearing a jade necklace. The pendant is Nicaraguan pre-Columbian jade that an archeologist friend gave him.

Roadside fruit stand

Erick, our guide

Erick shows us a fruit used to make maracas

Soon we enter Granada and park along the main square or Central Park, which is lined with horse drawn carriages for rent.

Granada's Central Park

Granada itself has wonderfully restored colonial buildings. Many housing restaurants, hotels and museums. Although, some of the buildings have a markedly more modern feel.

Music store on Penny Lane with John Lennon images

We stop for coffee and snacks at the lovely Hotel Plaza Colon and enjoy the local street scene.

Lilly's Cafe in Hotel Plaza Colon

A cashew vendor

Street eats

After our coffee break, we walk to the Cathedral of Granada. It's a magnificant example of colonial architecture.

Not far along the Central Park is the Governor's Palace, which now houses a museum.  We then stroll over to the Convent of San Francisco (which was actually a monastery, not a convent).

Governor's Palace

Walking streets of Granada

Convent of San Francisco

View of Cathedral from Convent

Inner courtyard of Convent

with historical murals

A pre-Columbian art museum, housed in the rear of the Convent, has a fascinating display of stone statues. Unfortunately, very little is known about these statues.
Lunch is served at the Garden Cafe. Our tables are along a beautiful inner garden.

Garden fountain

Dick and Ellyn from Oregon

Nadine from Brussels

After lunch we use our free time to explore the Museum of Pre-Columbian Archaeological Ceramics, which is housed in the former home of the archaeologist who assembled the collection.

We stroll back through the Central Park

By the International Hostel

to the Museum of Pre-Columbian Archaeological Ceramics

One of three inner courtyards in the former home

Peter's favorite

Looks like an owl on this bowl

The collection contains several odd large slipper shaped pots. We learn later they are ossaries, containers for human bones.

Typical pre-Columbian Ossary

Utilitarian pottery

I wouldn't want to stick my hand in this pot

We meet back up with the tour bus, which takes us tour boats on the lake to see some of the hundreds of islands that dot the lake close to the shoreline. Many of these island have individual vacation homes, restaurants and hotels on them.

Vacation home of one of Nicaragua's wealthiest families

Macaw at an island restaurant

Ohhh... we like this one.

One island is solely inhabited by monkeys who are used to being feed about the time we cruise by. They are very interested in our boats.

Where's our dinner?

Hummmph - stingy tourists

No food - no show

Erick picks pod off an overhanging branch and asks Ellyn to slowly stroke it. As she does, the pod bursts open revealing a really unusual flower.

Flower from pod

Ellyn and her flower

The boat heads back to shore with a volcano as backdrop

Some of the canals between the islands are so narrow that not even our shallow drafts can navigate them. All too soon our tour ends and we return to the Star Flyer

See any crocodiles?

Star Flyer at sunset

San Juan del Sur in the magic hour

That evening several young dancers entertain us on board with traditional dances of Nicaragua.
Nicaragua was an unexpected pleasure. We thoroughly enjoyed the slower pace of life, natural beauty, and the people we met. Who knows, we might even make it back some day.

Costa Rica - Aboard the Star Flyer Clipper Ship

On the day we board the ship we take a short taxi ride to the Intercontinental Hotel where the transfer point has been set up. Although we had planned to explore the Multiplaza (large shopping center) across the street, we learn we can catch the early bus to the ship. So we have lunch and watch part of an NFL playoff game with a young couple from Atlanta. We help them cheer the Falcons on.

Before long, we gather our carry on baggage and board the bus for the ship. Our guide has a bachelor's degree in Botany and points out the many different trees, plants and differing ecology as we near the coast. He is currently finishing a PhD in Tourism, working on an universal green hotel rating system.

Our guide pointing out sights along the way

Living fence posts keep livestock away from roads

YES! We made it to the port. Since the ship is only carrying a little over 100 passengers, the check-in process is mercifully easy as compared to the large cruise ships with thousands of passengers. Soon we are walking down the gangplank to the waiting tender that takes us to the Star Flyer Clipper Ship.

Peter on gangplank

Excitement builds to board ship

Soon we get our first clear view of the ship and are climbing aboard. We are greeted by a Welcome Aboard party in the bar area.

Star Flyer at anchor in Puerto Caldera

Welcome Aboard munchies and drinks

The main bar

We find our cabin, unpack and explore the ship before the ship weighs anchor.

Peter unpacking in our cabin

Cabin porthole

Dinning Room

Ship's bell on main deck

Yes - this really is a true sailing ship

Wow - those masts are really tall

As the ship gets underway, we catch the sunset as we leave port bound for Nicaragua.

Peter catching the sunset

Bottlenose dolphin accompany us out of the harbor

Red sails at night - Sailor's delight

The next day dawns bright and clear. It's our only sea day and we enjoy smooth sailing all the way to San Juan del Sur. We are intrigued by the different feel of the ship as the sails are hoisted and fill with wind. It's a much different sensation than under motor power. It's exhilarating!

Clear sailing and calm seas

We're at almost full sail

Sun shades surround the two pools

We enjoy watching the crew working with the sails. We now better understand stories of the Yankee Clippers that some of Peter's New England relatives captained in the 1800's.

Crew preparing a sail for rigging

Wow - a stiff breeze comes up in the afternoon and we're booking those nautical miles

A crew member climbs down from masts

Later in the afternoon, the winds abate and the passengers are invited to climb up to a lower crows nest.

Klaus climbs up

A fellow passenger is almost to the top

He made it just fine

Peter climbs up also with the camera for bird's eye view shots of the decks below.

View of fore deck from crows nest

The deck sure looks small down below

Nadine and I watch from below.

As sunset approaches, the mast climbers return to the main deck and our thoughts turn towards dinner.

A crew member helps a climber down

Dinner menu with water aerobics class

The last of the climbers descend

Ahhh... now many of the seafaring stories and movies make more sense. We now completely understand the "romance of the sea." (Although, we're glad to be in fair weather with relatively calm seas.)