Tuesday, September 15, 2015

Tassajara 2015

Although I have been to Tassajara many times, mostly for Guest Practice, this time Peter and I are going together as guests. This retreat center, part of the San Francisco Zen Center, is 17 miles down a rough forest service road. Tip: it's best to drive a 4WD.
Entering Los Padres National Forest

Not so friendly local warns us to keep our distance.


Although it's yet another drought year, some late rains have cloaked the Big Sur Mountains in green.
The twisting Forest Service road into Tassajara



After finding a good parking space under a tree, we nab an utility cart, load up our luggage and check in the office before proceeding to our cabin.
Office

Utility cart parked in front of the main temple

Down the path to our cabin

There's the cabin

It's nice inside

Deck overlooking the creek

For the first afternoon, we mostly take it easy in the Japanese style hot spring baths, cooling off in the creek, and lounging around the pool. It's a rough life, but someone has to do it.
Tassajara creek

Natural pool by baths

Relaxing by the pool under the grape arbors

A little before dinner we take a stroll in the flower garden.




The next morning greets us with a beautiful day.
Morning work group meeting for staff and students

Morning light through the leaves

Zen student reading by the courtyard

Later that afternoon, we hike down the creek to the narrows.While we are there we meet a young couple who have just hiked in from Arroy Seco, which is a daunting hike. We are impressed with their feat.
Tapestry on door of a resident

Peter talks to hikers at the narrows

A friendlier local

In the afternoon, Peter hikes up the creek and over the footbridge to explore some of the trails radiating out of Tassajara.








The evening meal is the highlight of the day. It's always fun to meet the different people who are attracted to Tassajara. At one of the meals, we meet a woman photographer from San Francisco. She has a great sense of humor and leaves us chuckling over her amusing observations.
Waiting for the dinner bell

A student fixes a cup of tea

Sun hangs low in the sky as evening approaches


All too soon, it's time to return home. Seems like every time we visit, it's sad to have to leave.
Peter gives a final bow to Tassajara by the new entry gate before we leave




Wednesday, September 9, 2015

Texas Round-up

Yup partner - these pages are normally called "wrap-ups," but because this trek was to Texas "round-up" seems more appropriate.  Below is an interactive map showing our route and various stops along the way. If you're ever planning a road trip to Texas, especially through west Texas, prepare to drive long Texas-sized distances. In fact as far as states go, only Alaska has Texas beat on the wide opens spaces between points of interest.

Tip: fuel up when you can especially in west Texas. I once made the mistake of trying to skip on to the next town for gas between Fort Stockton and Van Horne and barely made it. My poor car was running on fumes by the time it choked it's way up to a gas pump.




I've been to Texas many times to visit relatives, so my expectations for sightseeing were low with the attitude "been there, done that."  WRONG - some of the most amazing places we've ever seen are in Texas.  Below are our three top favorites:

Caverns of Sonora 

While we were on the road, fellow travelers Leslie and Al recommended seeing the Caverns of Sonora. Turned out, it was one of our best experiences ever - ranking right up there with flightseeing over Denali. If you are interested in an amazing underground experience take the tour of these caverns and skip Carlsbad altogether.

Big Bend Texas

Although I had passed through Big Bend many years ago, this trip we had the opportunity to explore it more fully. Spring is a great season to visit. We lucked out in hitting one of the best wildflower blooms in many years. Next time we'd like to bring a 4WD to explore the outer reaches and also sign up to float through some of the canyons on the Rio Grand.

Seminole Canyon

Seminole Canyon was another unplanned stop which turned out to be amazing. We found the guided tour was both intriguing and fascinating to learn about the ancestors of today's Huichol tribe. Later we found out about even more paintings in this area. We hope to return and dig even deeper into Lower Pecos Archaeology.

Texas has enjoyed a much storied past. Here are a few books we can recommend:
Texas: A Novel

King Ranch Story

Moon Texas

Texas State Parks & Historical Sites

Recommended Texas based movies
Last Picture Show

Boyhood

Giant

Blood Simple

No Country for Old Men

Lone Star

Some of my favorite Texas tunes:

This song makes me miss my grandfather and riding around San Antonio in his truck:



This tune puts a smile on my face about returning to San Antonio:

 

... and my absolute favorite:



Humm - maybe on our next trip, we'll fly into Austin and listen to music in the local honky tonks.

Ya'll come back! Ya' hear?

Tuesday, September 1, 2015

Calico Ghost Town CA

Leaving Homol'ovi we take I-40 West passing by Flagstaff AZ, the highest point of this road trip at 7000 ft in elevation.
Passing Flagstaff with the San Francisco Peaks as backdrop



Shortly after Flagstaff, I-40 descends into the deserts.
Descending from Flagstaff

Back into the Arizona/California deserts


crossing the Mojave National Preserve



Before Barstow, we turn north towards the California ghost town of Calico. It was founded in 1881 when four prospectors discovered silver in an area they described as "calico-colored" hills. Their Silver King mine was California's largest silver producer during the mid 1880's. At it's peak the town supported a weekly newspaper, three hotels, five general stores, three restaurants, and of course the requisite number of bars and brothels.

Today Calico has been restored to the silver rush era in which it flourished and serves as a tourist attraction, which includes a large RV park. We find a good campsite protected from the desert winds in a canyon below the town and then walk up to the town itself. We are surprised to learn Calico shuts down at 5pm sharp. We had planned to eat dinner in one of the restaurants that advertise serving it, but they are closing down as we arrive. Guess you need to eat a very early dinner in this town.

Clouds heavy with rain have gathered. So we decide it's time to have dinner in the van and try the town again early in the morning.
Campsite at Calico

Calico with rain clouds


The storm that evening turns out to have more wind than rain, but it does clear the air. The next morning we get up early to beat the crowds and take advantage of the lovely morning light.
Hiking back up the hill to Calico

Entrance to Calico Ghost Town

Main Street

As it's a beautiful morning, we hike up the hill behind the town for a panoramic view.
Calico CA



The town's rough and tumble mining past is very much in evidence just about everywhere we look.
Mine tailings

Combo home & mine entrance

Pretty grimy and primitive living conditions

Living conditions in Calico must have been harsh under the hot desert sun and cold winter winds. Still the miners did what they could to make themselves comfortable.
House built out of bottles

Home dug into the rock

Disgruntled miner moved on to better digs

As the town grew, so did the services and conveniences.
Saloons

General Store

Church

Fire must have been a constant threat, as fire fighting equipment is easy to spot around town.
Buckets ready for a brigand

Fire house

Fancy fire wagon - at one time state of the art

Other professional services grew as well, including:
Dr A R Rhea's Drug Store

Local Jail

Undertaker, furniture & auction house

The silver boom only lasted a decade or less and by 1900 Calico as a town and mining center was pretty much played out.
Abandoned mines



In 1951 Walter Knott and his wife Cordelia, the founders of Knott's Berry Farm, purchased the whole town and began restoring it. In 1962 Calico was registered as a California Historical Landmark. Then later in 1966, the Knotts donated it to San Bernadino County and it became a County Regional Park as it is today. 
Memorial to the Walter Knott Family

Tourist services offering food and trinkets

and amusements

Having absorbed as much history as Calico had to offer, we leave and navigate to California State Route 58 through the Mojave Desert, over the Tehachapi Mountains and into the San Joaquin Valley.
Windmills at the base of Tehachapi Pass



Mojave Desert

Descending down

and into the San Joaquin Valley

Past Taquitos Jesus roach coach

past a new tanker truck

and over the Coastal Range

An irrigated orchard contrasts with barren hills close to Paso Robles

Closer to the coast, we see spring flowers again as the temperatures cool in the foggy air.


California poppies by a roadside memorial

The Pajaro River valley - we are almost home!



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Retired and enjoying life.