Taos and Earthships, NM

Our next day trip out of Santa Fe is to Taos and the surrounding area. The Taos Pueblo has been continuously occupied for nearly a millennium and is believed to have been originally built between 1000 and 1450 AD.  The town of Taos was founded by Nuevo Mexico's Governor Fernando Chacon in 1795. Mexico ceded the region to the United States following the Mexican-American War in 1848. Starting around 1899 artists started making their homes and studios around Taos. In fact the Taos' art colony has attracted such legendary artists as Georgia O'Keeffe and Ansel Adams.

Georgia O'Keeffe has been one of my favorite artists since I was an undergraduate at Oregon State University, when I happened across an exhibit of her work in the Student Union. Her painting entitled Ram's Head and White Hollyhock completely captivated me.

Later in graduate school, while living in a guest cottage on an estate in Atherton, the lady of the house was hosting a party in Georgia O'Keeffe's honor. I got to meet her in person as she was being taken to the gala.  Much to my utter amazement, she was a truly nice person and took a personal interest in my art and encouraged me to continue working. Even though I never got to see her again, I never forgot that brief meeting.

New Mexico's wonderful highway art

Driving north to Taos

 

Camel Rock

Lower Taos Canyon

Taos (bottom left) with the towering Sangre de Cristo Mountains

The town of Taos is a magnet for skiers in the winters and tourists year round. I love the Pueblo Revival style of architecture the town has kept alive.

Hotel La Fonda

This old camper is at home here

Casa Plaza Kit Carson shopping center

As we wander around on foot, we come across the Six Hand Hat Company - famous for its hand made custom hats.  Both Jill and I fall in love with a lovely blue hat, but the price tag of $525+ gives both of us pause (especially me who is very good at losing hats).  Needless to say we are both no sales, much to Peter and Mark's relief. The owner's son is in the shop and is delighted that Enzo is with us.

Six Hand Hat Shop

Owner's son with Enzo

Kids' ride outside a shop

For many years I have been interested in sustainable architecture and have known about the Earthship Biotecture group. These homes use passive solar designs built out of old discarded tires, recycled bottles and using the ancient technique of rammed earth. We have tried to visit this project several times over our travels through New Mexico, but each time they were either closed or not allowing visitors.  We call ahead and yes, we are in luck - they are open today. So we leave Taos for their Visitor Center. As we drive up, we notice a large yellow school bus with some grade school kids hanging around.  Thinking nothing of it except it looks like a school field trip, we walk up to the door just as a man is hanging up a CLOSED sign. Confused I plea to be let in as we called ahead and was told they are open. The man just shakes his head in frustration and tells us the kids have overwhelmed the septic system causing it to back up raw sewage into the Visitor Center.  Looks like we won't be seeing any of the interiors today... {sigh}. They do have nightly rentals. Maybe next time we'll try a night and get a better feel for what it's like to live in one of these homes or even take one of their workshops.

Leaving Taos

Earthship Biotecture

Entrance to Visitors Center

Swallowing our disappointment, we wander around looking at different homes in this development.

Rammed earth with recycled glass bottles

Homemade wind generator

Rain water catchment system

 

Passive and active solar systems

Well built passive solar home

Massive structures are heat sinks

On our way back to Santa Fe, we stop at Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs. It's a lovely hot springs, but none of the pools are quite hot enough for our tastes.  Still - it's a fun stop and we all appreciate taking time off from our fun packed schedule. 

Ojo Caliente Hot Springs

Bandelier NM, NM

From Santa Fe we drive towards White Rock and Los Alamos, renown as an important center for the Manhattan Project during World War II. 

Sangre de Cristo Mountains

Plateau of high buttes

Our first stop is at the White Rock Visitor Center to get the latest information about accessing Bandelier National Monument since the rules have been in flux. The others go into the Visitor Center while I wait outside in front of a San Ildefonso pottery replica of one of Maria Martinez's Blackware plates. In 1918-1920 Maria and her husband Julian pioneered the techniques of contrasting matte and polished black finish designs.  She is the most famous of all the New Mexico potters and her originals do not come cheap. A small 3" bowl can cost thousands of dollars.

Peter walks toward the entrance

While Enzo and I wait outside

From White Rock, we drive into Bandelier and find a good shaded parking space for Enzo to relax while we explore the park's visitor center and hike through the ruins. Although we have been here before, these ruins are fascinating enough to see again.

Road to Bandelier

Mark and Peter are ready to go

Bandelier NM Visitor Center

The trail wanders along the creek and then past cliffs to the large set of ruins out on the flood plain.  The main Kiva is an especially good stop. These part underground structures were multipurpose community centers. They were used for spiritual ceremonies, political meetings and as a general gathering place during cold weather. The Great Kiva in Aztec Ruins has been rebuilt and gives a very good approximation of what they looked like and how they were used.

Sunny alcove in cliffs

Main Kiva

Trail through ruins

Of course to see the cliff dwellings, you have to climb, first up several flights of stairs then then up wooden ladders of which I am less than fond of.

Climbing up on stairs

Lots of stairs

Past rock formations

and ladders

and more ladders

and more ladders

Jill on the last ladder

Rooms are small but with natural light

Peter at window

The views at the top are well worth the climb

Back on the trail it's easy to see how the builders used the porous rock to hollow natural caves for rooms

 

Natural and man made rooms

The small holes were used to support roof beams of multistory "apartments"

Original bay window?

On our way back to Santa Fe we stop at the San Ildefonso Pueblo, where the famous potters Maria and Julian Martinez lived.  Our first stop is at their family home where a nephew carries on the tradition of making Blackware pottery. From there we drive into the main pueblo.  At the entrance there's a big sign to stop and sign in. We stop, but there's no one to check in with so we continue on.  We're just about to leave when the mayor comes rushing up in his pickup and madly waving his arms. He tells us we are here illegally since we didn't sign in with him and pay an entrance fee.  We told him we tried, but there wasn't anybody there, so we went on.  Despite being upset with us, he concedes there's not much he can do at this point as we were leaving anyway.

Back on the road towards Santa Fe

Stop at San Ildefonso

Maria and Julian's home still used by family

San Ildefonso Pueblo home

The church at San Ildefonso

Despite the dust up with the mayor, we've totally enjoyed this day trip exploring New Mexico's pueblos, both ancient and more modern.