Along for the ride: Haines, Alaska

The next morning we head south on the Haines Highway that runs from Haines Junction on the Alaska Highway in the Yukon to Haines on the Alaskan coast.

Through snow capped mountains

and gravel road sections with washboards.

We stop at the overlook of the Tatshenshini-Alsek Wilderness area, which was a major trading route between the native tribes of the coastal regions and the interior as well as being a favored summer hunting ground.

Tatshenshini-Alsek Overlook

As we near the coastal areas, we drive over Chilkat Pass which was once tightly controlled by the Chilkat Tribe, the most powerful of the Tlingit peoples. The Chilkats even successfully defeated their control over these trades routes against the white man, that is, until the great influx of humanity during the 1898 Klondike Gold Rush proved to be too much. They had such a wealthy and complex society that John Muir remarked in his Travels in Alaska of all the tribes he had met the Chilkats were superior:

"The Chilcats are the most influential of all the Thlinkit tribes. Whenever on our journey I spoke of the interesting characteristics of other tribes we had visited, my crew would invariably say, 'Oh, yes, these are pretty good Indians, but wait till you have seen the Chilcats.'"

Beginning of Chilkat Pass

Close to the top of the pass

The road follows along the Chilkat River shortly after the summit and re-entering Alaska. Every year in the Fall when the salmon are running, thousands of bald eagles assemble in this area mid October for the annual "Gathering Eagles." Even though it's too early for the big gathering, we do manage to see a few eagles on this stretch of river.

Chilkat River

Soon we are in Haines, Alaska.

Early eagle along Chilkat River

Peter checks out mural on Information Center wall

Marti meets a
local resident

Haines is nestled on one arm (Skagway is on the other arm) of the Lynn Channel, one of the longest and deepest fjords in the world. Although it's neighbor Skagway (main entry point for the Klondike Gold Stampeders to the Yukon) is more favored by the cruise ships, Haines has a better developed community of year around residents. The people of Haines are very friendly and welcoming as they get just enough tourists to still be interested in meeting visitors. In fact, we had one of our best meals in Haines - a potluck organized by the RV Park in which both locals (with fresh crab, prawns, and salmon) and visitors shared their homemade dishes.

Haines on the Lynn Channel

After securing a spot at Oceanside RV Park, we wander around the town to get our bearings. We are especially amused by one building with a Liquor Store on the first floor and an Acupuncture Clinic on the second floor. We joke that actually the two do go together as an Alaskan form of alternative pain control.

Small boat harbor

Bear's Den Bakery - great for breakfast

Alaskan alternative pain control

We love our view of the Lynn Channel from our campsite.

Although the tides along the Lynn Channel aren't as wide as Turnagain Arm, there's an amazing change between high and low tides. During the low tides, we see many birds and even a bear. In fact, one evening a young bear ventured so close to camp, the owners call the local sheriff who shot rubber bullets at the bear to scare it away. Joyce, one of the owners of the RV Park, tells of a grizzly who learned how to open sliding glass doors and raiding the freezers full of food at night.

Great Blue Huron

Low tide in front of Oceanside RV Park

Bald Eagle checks out tide pools

One day we rent a car and drive out to the 33 Mile Roadhouse for lunch. It's a favorite of both locals and visitors. We share the porch with a group of mountain climbers with their local guide. While there. we notice a man folding the wings of his small plane back and then hitching it to his car and driving away. We all watched in amazement and wondered how well the locking mechanism worked once the wings were snapped back into place.

After visiting the Ranger Station for Chilkat State Park, we decide to take a hike on the Seduction Point Trail just outside of Haines. It's a narrow winding trail through the forest which leads to the Chilkat Inlet. Although there's not much change in elevation gain, it's a challenging trail because of the many exposed roots on the trail and shaky bridges over swampy areas. The view up and down the Chilkat Inlet is well worth the hike.

Beginning of
Seduction Point Trail

Shoreline of Chilkat Inlet

Mountain and glacier across inlet

View towards the south of Chilkat Inlet

A magnificent glacier is plainly visible across the inlet.

Glacier terminal

Close up of blue ice

Our last day in Haines is overcast and rainy, so we decide to try some indoor activities. We start with the Sheldon Museum, which has a beautiful 100 year old apple tree by the entrance. Later we ask why we didn't see more fruit trees around Haines as they clearly can grow in this climate. People just laugh and shake their heads as the reason is the biggest pest imaginable - Moose. A determined moose is a force to behold.

Sign for Sheldon Museum

Raven bringing
Sun to Man

Eagle mask

The Chilkats were a tribe of fierce warriors and many of the exhibits reflect this culture.

Chilkat armor

Carving of Raven

Copper Shield
for a Chief

After the museum we walk over to Fort William Seward which was established during Alaska's Gold Rush Era. Today it houses residential homes and shops.