BC Ferry and Vancouver Island

We're up early (before 5am) to line up for boarding.  While waiting in line we notice three large tour buses waiting in line as well. Later we learn they are filled with German speaking tourists on a two week tour of Canada from Vancouver BC and will return there after visiting Victoria BC.

Fortunately, we are among the first vehicles to board. After getting the IQ settled in the hold, we have time to explore the Northern Expedition. It's the newest and most modern of the BC Ferry fleet.  Even though we won't be aboard for an over night, we booked a cabin for napping and catching up on our sleep.  We are delighted to see a spacious clean cabin with a modern bathroom complete with Hansgrohe fixtures. We start referring to this ferry as the "Cruise Ship."

Peter watches departure preparations

and we're off!

Who's that guy at our cabin window?

The public areas of the ferry are tastefully decorated in with Northwestern Art. The ferry even comes with a cruise ship type gift shop. I score a beautiful hand turned maple bowl which was 75% off on an end of season sale. When checking out, the lady at the register said she also had her eye on the same bowl and was glad it was going to a good home. Canadians are such nice people.

Cafeteria seating

more seating.

We are amazed at how many waterfalls we pass long our route.  Some tumbling down tall mountains and others seem to gush straight out the side of a cliff.  We watch a logging operation using a large helicopter to carry large logs from the steep slopes down to the holding pen. We wonder how they can make any money using such an expensive helicopter. Maybe they're harvesting cedar?

One of many waterfalls

Waterfall cascading down side of mountain

Helicopter logging

Most of our route follows narrower channels (which the larger cruise ships can't navigate)  along the Inside Passage. Since we thread between islands, the waters are calm and the journey is smooth.

Calm waters of the Inside Passage

Watching the weather change on the stern deck

Grenville Channel

About mid afternoon we come into Bella Bella, home of the Heiltsuk First Nation. While on deck watching the docking process, we meet a tall young man who is returning home after a summer of canoe racing and adventures. He is very proud of his home and tribe, especially how they have adapted some modern conveniences while keeping their traditions. He tells us not only about his canoe adventures, but also what it's like to grow up and live here.  We remark on the many salmon jumping out of the harbor. He explains the dry summer has left the river too low for them to swim up to their spawning grounds. They'll wait until more rains fill the river. Often a few weeks later the harbor is boiling with fish waiting for the river to rise.

Lighthouse at entrance to Bella Bella Harbor

Docked at Bella Bella

Bella Bella BC Canada

Just before midnight we dock in Port Hardy. Fortunately, the signage in this area is very good and we have no trouble finding our campsite at Quatse River Regional Park and Campground. We are impressed that one of the owners has stayed up to greet us at this late hour. In the morning. we explore the lovely grounds located in old growth timber. We would like to stay longer, but the weather's drippy and we're anxious to head homeward, so we get back on the road driving south along the eastern edge of Vancouver Island.

We've been looking forward to this drive as so many people have told us how beautiful it is. Unfortunately we are dismayed to see how much logging is going on in the northern part of the island. Perhaps if we had driven this way northward, we would have liked it much better, but compared to the pristine wilderness areas of the Yukon and Alaska, Vancouver Island is less impressive.

Port Hardy welcome sign

Logging in northern Vancouver Island

We stop for the night at Salmon Point Resort RV Park and Marina, just south of Campbell River. Although it's pricier than we're used to paying, we get a great campsite on the water across from mainland Canada. Besides, we get to relax our weary bones in their nice hot tub while doing much needed loads of laundry.  We meet several people in a large RV caravan of Swiss at this park. Apparently they come to this location every year.

The next morning we move on and stop at Miracle Beach Provincial Park for a short hike. We agree it's the place to stay in mid Vancouver Island if we didn't have so much laundry to do. We decide to move on closer to Victoria as Labor Day weekend is coming up and we want to make it back to Washington before the crowds descend on Vancouver Island. We stop at Goldstream Provincial Park, which is only 30 minutes outside of Victoria. It's a large spacious park and we are very happy to have found a nice campsite so close to the city.  However, the downside to camping close to a city are noisy neighbors who have come to party and not to commune with nature. We resolve to get on the ferry back to good old USA as soon as we can.

Miracle Beach at low tide

Trail to Miracle Beach

Our campsite at Goldstream

It is still very nice provincial park in old growth Douglas fir, hemlock, and cedars. That afternoon, we take a hike to a close by waterfall.

Peter on trail

Big burls on old growth tree

Fallen giant

Peter points out a shelf fungus

Wild blueberries

The waterfall is beautiful and a favorite location of local photographers for taking bridal portraits.
The next morning turns out to be a gorgeous day as we make the short drive into Victoria. It's a bit jarring to be on city streets again, but we manage to make it to the Black Ball Ferry in the heart of downtown. We line up with extra time to explore the harbor and eat an enjoyable lunch at a sidewalk cafe. We get a big kick out of watching the pedestrians and the street performers. Humm ... maybe we should have scheduled more time in Victoria. Oh well, there's always another trip.

Photogenic waterfall

The Empress Hotel on Victoria harbor

A beautiful day on Victoria Harbor

Our time in Victoria is too short and we have to run back to the IQ to be ready for boarding our ferry to Port Angeles WA.  As part of the boarding procedure we have to relinquish some lemons before crossing the border, but the check out procedure is fairly quick and painless. One of the great parts of this ferry ride is their duty free shop, in which we convert the last of our Canadian money into a nice bottle of Grey Goose. Now that's a good exchange rate.

The Ferry Coho

Docking in Port Angeles WA

After a short ferry ride we find ourselves back in the USA, but first we must pass yet another "ag" inspection. The odd part of this inspection is it's being conducted by Border Patrol agents. So, why they doing an agricultural inspection?  The agent not only looks in our refrigerator, but also checks our closet and bathroom. No, we're not trying to smuggle in any illegal Canuks. After confiscating some green onions and the pit to an avocado, they release us.

Welcome home!