Saturday, November 9, 2013

Yellowstone - Utah

Although the skies are mostly sunny as we prepare to leave Lava Hot Springs, weather alerts on our cell phones and radio tell us to expect strong thunderstorms with golf ball sized hail. We decide to venture out anyway and keep our eyes peeled for any signs of nasty weather. We don't have to go far before we see ominous storm clouds gathering in the south, exactly the direction we're headed. I warn Peter to slow down and before he has much of a chance to object, we're hit hard by strong winds and pouring rain. Fortunately, we don't get any big hail stones and the storm passes as quickly as it blew up. Even though I used to live in the Rockies, it's amazes me how fast the weather can change.
Nasty looking storm clouds ahead.

Hard rain and wind gusts


After all the excitement from the storm is over, we're left with towering clouds trailing behind.



The skies clear as we cross into Utah, otherwise known as the "beehive state" - perhaps reflecting the hard working colonies of the early Mormon settlers.  In fact, all state highways are marked by beehive images. The towns are mostly laid out in grids with wide streets and boulevards lined with trees. The early Mormon city planners deserve kudos for their forward thinking.
Welcome to Utah - Life Elevated

State Hwy Beehive sign

Wide boulevards in Utah towns

Since we've been listening to the Lonely Polygamist by Brady Udall, we play a road game of spotting possible polygamist homes. Although the state of Utah banned polygamy to join the union, the practice of polygamy persists, mostly in rural sects. Despite sensational news stories surrounding Warren Jeffs and HBO's Big Love series, most modern day polygamists blend in with the general population and are pretty much left alone.

For the most part, Utah towns and cities are remarkably clean and neat with new construction side-by-side to pioneer buildings.
Possible polygamist home ?

Logan UT

Pioneer building next to newer construction

As we drive through Logan UT we spot the large Mormon temple over the tops of the buildings. After a late lunch and a stop at the National Forest Ranger Station, we head east on Hwy 89 for the scenic drive through Logan Canyon.
Mormon Temple, Logan UT

Logan Canyon scenic drive

Logan Canyon

We stop at Guinavah-Malibu National Forest campground. To celebrate finding a nice campsite on the Logan River, we take a short hike up one of the trails.
Our camp on the Logan River



A touch of fall along the trail

That night another fast moving thunderstorm wakes us up around midnight. We watch the lightening and listen to the thunder claps and then fall back to sleep. The day dawns cool and clear. A great day for driving through the rest of the canyon.



After reaching the summit, we stop at the rest area for a panoramic view of Bear Lake, which has been called the "Caribbean of the Rockies" for its deep turquoise blue waters. In the summers of 1827 and 1828, the beach at the south end of the lake was the location for the Rocky Mountain Rendezvous during which mountain men, including the famous Jedediah Smith and Jim Bridger, met with native tribes to trade for furs and store goods, as well as to having a good time together.
Bear Lake UT



We drive south to join up to I-80. After many miles on two lane blacktops, it feels strange to be back on an interstate. I talk Peter into stopping for lunch at Park City UT, which was one of the skiing areas I frequented during the early 1970's when I lived in Salt Lake City.

Wow - has Park City changed since my last visit. It's evolved from a grimy mining town in which friends were buying old cabins for a song and flipping them to ski happy families for considerably more. Needless to say those days are long gone. The 2002 Winter Olympics put Park City on the international map to stay. Now it's a high end international resort complete with its own Sundance Film Festival. I've got to admit, the skiing in Utah is excellent... the dry conditions make for a light powdery snow, which is fun to glide through effortlessly.

Still you gotta know this town is now chi-chi with its many bronze statues and hefty $5 to park for a few hours on the main streets.  Yup - you gotta pay plenty to park in Park City.

I-80 traveling west from Evanston WY


Bronze warrior in Park City UT

Notice the "Pay to Park" sign on the right?

The old part of town is lovely with vintage buildings and landscaping. We choose a restaurant/bar for an excellent lunch. The owner/bartender/waiter and I get into a discussion of how much Park City has changed over the years and share some jokes.  In the process he tells us about a local vodka called Five Wives distilled in Ogden UT that's been banned in State of Idaho (it's true - check the link).  I gotta have a bottle of it. He directs us to the local state liquor store where we purchase a bottle.

Note: even though Utah has a large population of devote Mormons who don't drink, they are not the majority of the population, but they are the largest minority. Consequently, Utah is made up of Mormons and non-Mormons with very different views about alcohol and sin in general... a bit like Baptists and sinners in the south.
the old downtown of Park City UT

Five Wives Vodka

A large rest room for large families

Peter drags me out of Park City and we make a short drive to Wasatch Mountain State Park, where we set up camp for the night. It's the only state park we've been to that comes with a golf course. Jill and Mark - you need to make a note of this place.
Wasatch Mountain State Park duck pond

our campsite

Yes - a golf course next to the campground

That evening we're treated to another showy Rocky Mountain sunset.



The next morning we make an early start to sneak through the metropolitan areas around Salt Lake so we can drive the wide open spaces of "the loneliest highway in America" U.S. Route 50.




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Retired and enjoying life.