Along for the ride: Utah Hwy 12

We leave Kodachrome on a cool cloudy morning and head generally northeast on Utah's Hwy 12. For more information on this scenic byway, you can download a pdf of the brochure. It is truly a route to just enjoy the ride.

As we drive through Dixie National Forest, the clouds thicken and the temperature drops as we start up the 7400' summit by Canaan Peak. Light rain starts to fall and then turns into large snowflakes. I start to get nervous as we're not prepared for driving in snow and ice. Fortunately, we are soon over the pass and beyond the flurries.

We pull into Escalante Petrified Forest State Park. Although it's early to settled down into a camp, we plan to hike the trail to see the petrified forest. At the gate we ask about this hike. The ranger tells us it's about a 4 hour hike over some steep sections of slickrock. All of a sudden we're having second thoughts. Slickrock is so called because it gets very slippery when wet from rain or snow. With snow flurries on the way, we decide to forgo this hike for another trip and keep on going.

Large snowflakes start to fall

Snow flurries over by Canaan Peak

Escalante Petrified Forest State Park

Our next stop is Head of the Rocks Overlook, which is quite crowded with different groups of motorcyclists. From talking to one of the riders, Peter learns all the Harleys were rented from Eagle Rider in Ft. Lauderdale FL. They're been on the road awhile to get here. One group appears to be French and another is speaking a Slavic type language. We meet a couple of Canadians who are driving a similar RV. We joke that we are the only English speakers on the large crowded overlook.

At this overlook, we can see clear across the Escalante Canyons that seem to stretch as far as the horizon. Around 168 million years ago these colorful rock formations were sand dunes. Snaking through these formations, we can easily trace the route of the "Million-dollar Road", a depression era WPA project. The road took over five years of back breaking labor and tons of dynamite to bring to completion in 1933. Needless to say before the road, travel through this region was difficult at best.

Windy day at the overlook

There's where the road goes after we leave here

Overlook turn out from Hwy 12

Heads of the Rocks Overlook

Not far down Hwy 12, we pull in at the Kiva Koffeehouse. A ranger at Red Canyon highly recommended we stop here if it's open, if nothing else just to see the place. However, she did say the coffee was excellent and we can use a jolt of caffeine. It was created and completed in 1998 by Bradshaw Bowman (artist, mentor, contractor, inventor and engineer) at the young age of 87. His love for this project added to his zest for life until his death on Christmas Eve 2000.

Kiva Koffeehouse

The interior exudes a warm southwestern welcome complete with interesting pieces of art, jewelry, and of course books. Since tables are in short supply, two men ask if they can join us at our table. One looks very familiar to me. Turns out he's a former colleague from University of California - Fred Beshears. Fred and I both held the same positions on our respective campuses - his at the UC Berkeley campus and mine at UC Santa Cruz. We have a good laugh over not recognizing each other sooner. After catching up and swapping stories of retirement travel, it's time to saddle up again. On the way out, I briefly meet the current owner of Kiva Koffeehouse who's preparing jewelry for sale. I compliment him on the shirt he is wearing and he replies that he both designed and sewed it together. Looks like Kiva Koffeehouse is in good hands.

Inside of Kiva Koffeehouse

Fred Beshears

Current owner of Kiva

View from Kiva Koffeehouse

Next, we check out Calf Creek Recreation Area for a possible campsite and hiking. This area is well known for its Lower Calf Creek Falls hike. Unfortunately, the small campground is full and the place is over-run with large buses of hikers eager to hit the trail. We decide to move on, but to return on another trip.

Entrance to Calf Creek

Beautiful scenery - we can see why it's so popular

Calf Creek

The next section of road is known as "The Hogback". Here the road clings to a thin razorback ridge of slickrock far above winding canyons.

Approaching the Hogback

Narrow canyon running through the Hogback

Steep drop off on the side of the road

In the small town of Boulder UT, we stop at the Anasazi State Park Museum. This museum is a good introduction to the Anasazi culture and way of life. Since we have already explored many of the important Anasazi ruins, this museum is basic for us. Still they do have some nice exhibits and it is well worth the stop. Oddly, we miss seeing the bright red snow shovel as we enter the main door. It's a omen for what's in store for us later that afternoon.

Anasazi State Park Museum

Flint points

Pottery

When we first entered Boulder, we noticed the crowded parking lot in front of the Burr Trail Grill and decide to check it out for a late lunch after the museum. By mid afternoon, the crowd has thinned out, but there's still more people remaining than expected. Vaguely I remember a story about a famous chef who started a new restaurant in this area. This must be the place and it must be listed on every guide book in the world as the clientele are speaking languages from around the globe. Once again we are reminded of our old axiom - "You never know what you're going to find until you get there." By the way, the food is outstanding.

After lunch we start up Boulder Pass towards Torrey UT, where we plan to spend the next two nights. It's not long before the snow flurries are upon us again. Although we know we'll be going over a pass, we have no idea exactly where the summit is and the elevation as our AAA Southern Utah map doesn't have it marked (one of the few times AAA has let us down). Later we learn Boulder Pass summit is 9200', the highest in the area.

Burr Trail Grill

Sign for Burr Trail

Back in the snow

The snow starts to stick more and more on the road as we climb higher and higher. I'm anxious as we aren't prepared for these conditions. Peter keeps reassuring me our heavy van with duellies will get us through. I take extra comfort from seeing an occasional car or camper meeting us from the opposite direction. At least people are getting over the summit OK.

Ack! The snow's getting deeper

and deeper.

Whew! We're over the summit.

Just before we reach our destination of Thousand Lakes RV Park in Torrey (with full hook-ups to keep us warm through the cold nights), the snow stops completely and we're treated to peeks of a beautiful valley.