Bienvenidos Havana Cuba

After a day of touring the Everglades we return the rental car at Miami International airport and check into the Sofitel Hotel where we join the rest of our group. That evening Jon Showe, our trip leader, preps us for tomorrow's flight to Havana over an excellent dinner. Early the next morning we fill out forms, tag our bags, and board a bus for the airport.

Paperwork? Did I mention paperwork? We get our exercise filling out forms to enter Cuba via the front door (versus through Mexico for example). While at the airport we watch Cuban-Americans pulling large pallets of new appliances (TVs, microwaves, etc) wrapped in plastic. Jon explains they are bringing in hard-to-obtain-goods on the plane to their relatives in Cuba despite the fact they have to pay exorbitant transportation and import fees.

Sofitel in Miami

Jon arranges for our visas and boarding passes

After boarding and taking off, there's still more paperwork to fill out. When all the forms have been turned in, Jon gives us a quick lesson on Cuban money. Like many things in Cuba, it's complicated.  Cuba has two systems of currency - the Cuban convertible peso (aka "CUCs" pronounced "cukes") with pictures of monuments on the bills and coins. CUCs are pegged to the US dollar (ie one CUC= one dollar). These are used mostly in the tourist trade. The other currency is the Cuban peso with pictures of people on bills and coins. Cuban state workers (about  80% of the work force) are paid in this currency.  The disparity of worth is considerable as this peso is only valued about 1/25th of a CUC. Consequently, it's worth paying attention to bills and coins received from money exchanges or as change for purchases. Another quirk of the Cuban monetary system is (at this writing) is US credit cards are not accepted in Cuba - BRING CASH!

Arrggghhh.. more paperwork

CUC vs national peso

Despite the large gulf between governments, it's a short hop between Miami and Havana. Our first impressions of Cuba is how lush the fields are below, but also how few vehicles are on the roads. Cuba is going to be a very different world than the concrete and steel world of high rises and crowded freeways in Miami.

Last of Florida Keys

The verdant island of Cuba

Landing in Havana

Once in the Havana terminal, we go through Cuban customs. However, it's relatively painless and the Cuban people are welcoming, including even the cleaning lady in the restroom. These cleaning ladies are in every public restroom and a small tip is expected. Just outside the terminal we immediately spot the famous Cuban vintage cars lined up ready to taxi visitors away. We board an awaiting bus and learn it will be our main transportation (and home away from hotels) during our stay. Furthermore, the driver, Jose, and Cuban guide, Meylin, will be with us throughout our journey.

Havana air terminal

Vintage cars used as taxis at airport

Havana streets

Our first stop is the Hotel Nacional de Cuba, where many famous people have stayed. In fact, a number of rooms have been preserved where political and cultural icons stayed such as: Nat King Cole, Jean Paul Sartre, Rita Hayworth, Frank Sinatra, and Meyer Lansky (of the US Mafia).  As we walk though the hotel, we notice a beautiful woman in a red dress surrounded by photographers.  At first we think it's a fashion shoot, but then realize it's for a quinceañera, the celebration of the 15th birthday of a young lady as she passes from childhood to womanhood. It's a coming out party much like introducing debutantes to society in the US.

Hotel Nacional

Quinceañera

Ahh... our lunch stop out in the garden

We wander through the garden to the restaurant La Barraca where we get out first taste of Cuba.

Musicians at lunch

Appetizers of veggie fritters and plantain chips

Thanks Barbara for helping to get us here

The restaurant has an excellent view of the entrance to Havana's bay.  Unfortunately,  rain is moving in so visibility is limited.  Peter and I decide to walk along the shoreline after lunch.

Shoreline view from La Barraca

A late season hurricane/tropical storm has by passed Cuba and hit Vera Cruz Mexico. Even though the main storm avoided Cuba, we are getting hit by the outer bands. By the end of lunch, the rain has started in earnest, so we think it's best to explore the inside of the hotel instead.

Lobby area

Ballroom is being renovated

Wow - it's really pouring out there

We wander downstairs to the Havana Club rum and cigar store.

Havana Club store

These prices are apiece for each cigar

A $1700 bottle of rum.  Not on our budget

Back upstairs we wander into the main bar where our group has assembled. The walls are festooned with photo montages of famous people who have been here. We get a kick out of the vintage jukebox and roulette wheel on display, no longer used since the revolution.

Can we take it home?

So this is where everybody is

former gaming table

The photo montages are arranged by decade.  For example, the 40's montage includes Fred Astaire, Churchill, Betty Grable, and Aga Khan. The 50's includes Ava Gardner, Marlon Brando, Mickey Mantle, and Walt Disney. Yes, of course Fidel Castro was here as well.

1940's

Too much fun with rum. No mas mojitos!

1950's

Back on the bus, Havana becomes an impressionist watercolor through the window and the driving rain.
Since it's not a great day for walking Old Havana, we head for the Museo de la Revolucion. In addition to the 1950's revolution, Cuba has a long military presence starting with the Spanish. Havana's excellent harbor was the main go-to port for galleons ferrying the riches of the New World back and forth to Spain. Word of these riches got around and Spain needed to protect it's treasure from privateers and buccaneers of different nationalities.

Changing of the guard

part of Spanish fortified wall

Revolutionary tank on display

After viewing the outside display of revolutionary weapons and vehicles, we cross the street to the main Museo housed in the former Presidential Palace of dictator Fulgencio Batista. During the 1950's Cuban Revolution rebel troops invaded the palace spraying bullets. Marks left from these bullets can still be seen throughout the building, but the most obvious are just above the bust of Jose Marti, a national hero and symbol of Cuban independence.

Entrance to Museo

Bust of Jose Marti on grand staircase

Adam points to bullet holes while Sandra snaps a pic

Upstairs are several political displays. Needless to say, neither Bush administrations were well regarded in Cuba, but Fidel Castro remains a national hero.

George senior as Caesar and W as an idiot

Gold plated phone for emergencies.

Cheers for Castro

The bus then takes us to a promontory overlooking Havana Harbor,  the premiere harbor of the Caribbean. Here is 66' high statue of The Christ of Havana, commissioned by Batista's second wife Marta and is the work of Cuban sculptor Jilma Madera. Marta may have hoped the statue blessing Havana would help calm the raising unrest of the people under the brutish rule of her husband.  Oddly enough only 15 days after the statue's inauguration, it's head was hit by lightening on the same day Fidel and his revolutionary forces entered Havana. The head has since been repaired.

Not far from the statue is a former residence of Che Guevara, where he lived several years after the revolution. Although we didn't get a chance to tour his home, it is open to the public.  As with other areas popular with tourists, the ubiquitous vintage taxis are lined up along the street.

Che's residence

The Christ of Havana

Ohhh - I like this pink Chevy convertible

The views of Havana's magnificent harbor are impressive. Jon points out oil refineries where Cuba refines cheap Venezuelan crude, keeping some and selling the rest at a profit. Currently the Cuban government is relocating the industrial sections of the harbor to make way for cruise ships and super freighters.  Tourist income is an important part of the economy, but hotel facilities are limited and already stretched.  Cruise ships bring in extra visitors not needing hotel rooms.

Havana Harbor

Driving back through Havana, the city's jumble of architecture forms a visual feast. Generally the city grew in concentric circles from the harbor, but not in a consistent manner. Consequently, buildings of different eras are often mixed together, as well as buildings in various states of restoration and/or decay.

60's era high rises next to a modern sports stadium

Classic old buildings, renovated, crumbling, and derelict next to a 60's high rise.

Art Deco building surrounded by Russian style apartments

The next stop on our tour is the large Revolutionary Square - Plaza de la Revolucion. This enormous plaza has been used for political rallies.

Ministry of Interior with Che Guevara

Jose Marti Memorial

Camilo Cienfuegos on the Ministry of Informatics and Communications

Today Revolutionary Square is sparsely occupied by a few foreign tourists other than our group. Both cocotaxis and modern Yutong buses (Chinese made) await tourists to ferry them about, while Cubans rely more on motor-shooters, vintage cars, buses, or simply walking to get around.

Cocotaxis waiting for riders

Yutong bus used for tourist trade

Cuban transportation

By late afternoon our rooms are ready for check-in at the Hotel Saratoga, a joint Cuban/French venture. Jon tells us the Saratoga is his favorite hotel in Havana. Peter and I have to admit it's much fancier than where we normally stay - plus we're thrilled to have a room with a view.

Downtown Havana at our feet

Grand room with high ceilings

and right across from the Theatro Marti

Later for Happy Hour, we assemble in the bar for aperitivos and drinks with Cuban dancers and musicians to entertain us. Certainly a  wonderful welcome to Cuba. 

The bar at Hotel Saratoga

Aperitivos & entertainment

Great musicians

We again board our bus for a short ride to dinner. Havana at night is magical and romantic enough to merit being a Hollywood movie set as is - no digital enhancements required.

The rain has started again as we scramble from the bus into La Casa Padadar, a family run restaurant.  In Cuba, restaurants are either run by a local family out of their homes, or by the government. Generally both the service and food are better in the family paladars and La Casa is no exception. Both the food and staff are wonderful.

Here comes the rain again

Mojitos anyone?

Lori, Christy and Nancy lead the toasts.

Seafood supper

Jon preps us for tomorrow

Los Rodrigo - a family of musicians entertain us

It's been an eventful first day, so it's an early lights out after returning to our room.