Along for the ride: Coromandel Peninsula, New Zealand

After the rousing welcome from the All Blacks fans, we hit a rough patch. It's always disorienting to be in a new foreign country, even in one where English is spoken. As requested, we declare our hiking equipment to customs. However, no one told us New Zealand is very picky about bringing in foreign soil microbes. So we wait about 15 minutes as customs officials clean our hiking boots to their standards. Morale of the story - make sure all your sports equipment is free of any soil before entering New Zealand.

Once through customs, we load a luggage cart and head outside into the pouring rain. Fortunately, the Auckland airport has good overhangs in their loading zones. Still, with the wind blowing, it is a chilly and wet morning.

First we need to contact Wendekreisen (our van rental company) for pick up. After fumbling around with my new Verizon plan for New Zealand (note to self - buy a NZ phone chip next time), I finally get through using their Free # (works like a 1-800 number in the USA). A phone answering machine says the office won't open for another half hour. In the meantime, Peter checks for a taxi cab to take us to the Wendekreisen office, which is only a mile or two away. Taxi cab fare for this short trip is $50 NZ.

Needless to say, we decide to wait 30 minutes. When we are able to get through to a human, we learn we need to wait another hour before a driver can pick us up. Finally an hour later, we are thrilled for the Wendekreisen driver to come and pick us up.

It takes at least another hour to check out our van rental. This check out process is a bit sketchy as our van is a brand new model made in China and a first for Wendekreisen. At least the rain has slowed by then and the sun peeps out between the clouds. We throw our gear in and Peter drives us off onto the streets while I chant "Left lane... stay in the left lane" like a mantra.

After surviving a glitch or two as my phone navigation adjusts to the NZ Spark system, we arrive at Urban Soul to meet Jill (Peter's sister) and her husband Mark. Urban Soul is the first of many stops at New Zealand's cafes (like a high end Starbucks with more food options). The day then takes a turn for the better as we enjoy a nice lunch. We then spot a Countdown Market in the same shopping center, where we stock up the vans with food and needed supplies (New Zealand has two main supermarket chains, Countdown is one and the other is New World.)

Jill and Mark's van ... aka
"The Mother Ship"

Present from Jill

Our van... aka
"The Chinese Junk"

We all manage to stay on the left side of the road long enough to make the hour drive to our first camp site at Miranda Hot Springs Holiday Park ("Holiday Park" is Kiwispeak for RV Park.)

Office at Miranda Hot Springs Holiday Park

The next morning is cool but gorgeous

Hot spring pool at Miranda

Tropical landscaping

Two local Kiwi

After breakfast we hop back into our respective vans and head for the Coromandel Peninsula on the recommendation of a friend. A word of warning, the roads are narrow, steep with sharp turns, and one lane bridges. We are impressed by the green countryside populated with fat healthy livestock, especially after coming from drought stricken California. We joke that New Zealand doesn't have any skinny cows. Even the Kiwis agree with us - Spring is a fat time for livestock.

Happy dairy cows on the Coromandel Peninsula

Hahei Holiday Resort

Camped at the Terrace Beach sites

When we first arrive, Jill and I only book for one night, but after taking one look at the view from our campsites, we hurry back to the office and quickly sign up for a second night.

View from our campsites

That afternoon, we set out on the hike to Cathedral Cove from our campsites. The trail is beautiful and the views offered at different twists and turns are stunning.

Beach below trail

Jill & Peter goofing

New Zealand ferns are everywhere

Some ferns are gigantic

Hiking Cathedral Cove trail

Mark, me and Jill

Looking back towards our campsites along the beach

A motor boat heads south

Our first view of Cathedral Cove

At one point, we reach a large grassy area with a nearby parking lot. We are surprised to see a variety of vans all rented by foreign tourists like ourselves. We had thought we would have the place to ourselves since it's off season. Looks like lots of other travelers had the same idea.

Tourists' vans lined up at parking lot

More fat happy cattle along trail

Side branch of the trail brings us to Gemstone Bay

View of beach from steep trail above

Wow - we can see why it's called Cathedral Cove

Offshore rock through tunnel

Peter takes a dip in the cold water

while Mark, Jill and I chill on the beach

Time to climb back up the trail

It's an early night for all of us after our first NZ hike. The next day is also gorgeous and we share breakfast alfresco on a picnic table. Soon a cheeky song thrush is hopping around us demanding to be fed. NZ does not have ground squirrels, chipmunks, or camp robbing jays haunting campgrounds. Instead, this ecological niche is filled in by introduced birds like this thrush and lots of camp ducks. More about camp marauding ducks later.

We choose the short drive to Hot Water Beach from a list of Kelly's recommendations from Iconic RV Rental (Jill & Mark's van rental company). Under the sands on this particular beach is a thermal zone and at low tide visitors can dig themselves a hot water spa.

Cheeky Song Thrush

Entrance to Hot Water Beach

The hot spot is a short trek down the beach

We purchase a shovel from the camp store and arrive a short time later, only to find we are a little late to the party as the nadir of the low tide has past. I meet a group of Brazilians who are thoroughly enjoying their pool. I tell them that I used to live in Portugal and still speak a little Portuguese.They are skeptical until I recite 1 to 10 in Portuguese. They look amazed and then we all enjoy a good laugh together. They tell us to stick around as they will be leaving soon and we can have their pool.