Wellington & Ferry, New Zealand

The road to Wellington takes us along the west coast boarding the Tasman Sea. The weather becomes cloudier, colder, and rainier the closer we get to the city. Guess there's a good reason it's called windy (and wet) Wellington.  We quickly learn the residents call themselves "Wellies" similar to Nelson residents being "Nellies." We wonder later while visiting Napier, if the locals are called "Nappies." Probably not.

Coastal road by the Tasman Sea

Wellington & Santa Cruz share being nuclear free

We have chosen to stay at the Wellington Waterfront Motorhome Park. It's not much to look at and is pricey for what you get in amenities; however, it's next door to the ferry docks and is located within walking distance of Wellington's major downtown attractions. After getting the vans settled, we don our rain gear and head out on foot along the harbor toward the Te Papa Museum, famous for its collection of Maori art and artifacts.

Checkerboard twins ready for rain

Gigantic sea urchin shells decorate the breakwater

On our way to the Te Papa, we pass an enormous climbing gym. Apparently Wellington's weather doesn't stop intrepid Kiwi athletes from having a good time.

Harbor-side climbing gym

Jill & Mark walk through the rain drops to Te Papa

inside Te Papa is a spacious modern museum

The upper floors afford large picture windows with sweeping views of downtown and the harbor.

Wellington marina

Fellow visitors admire the view of downtown

Hey there's a New World!

The Maori exhibits are well worth the price of admission. The ocean navigational feats of the early Polynesians is truly astounding. We wonder how many people didn't return from their wide ranging explorations.

Full-sized Maori canoe

Wood & weaving

Ceremonial couch shell trumpet

Te Papa also has a floor dedicated to modern Kiwi art...

which ranges from funny and quirky

to odd & bizarre

Billboard outside offers cultural entertainment

After the museum we wander the downtown area in search of a good place to eat dinner.

A popular Cuban restaurant is too crowded

Water bucket  city fountain

Stately building housing a Burger King ??

Not finding anything to our liking, we head back to the harbor area to find ourselves walking against the direction of runners on a local charity event on our way to the Crab Shack. Even though this restaurant is crowded with Friday evening customers, we are seated in the bar section right next to a large Kiwi family celebrating the 90th birthday of the family matriarch. They are a wonderful family and we enjoy getting to know them by reminiscing about the large birthday parties we held for Peter & Jill's dad when he was in his 90's.

The food at the Crab Shack is great, but the service not so much.  It took our waiter over an hour to bring any of our food. Then after eating we continued waiting a long time for the check, that never comes. Finally, we page down a busboy and ask about our check. He replies we have to go to the cashier to pay our bill.  Turns out wait staff are not tipped in New Zealand, nor do they usually handle any cash. Although Kiwis like this system and warn us not to spoil their wait staff with tips,  we quickly reach the conclusion, tipping is a matter of you get what you paid for.  In the future, if we eat a a sit-down restaurant and want good service, we simply inform the wait staff we are Americans and we tip for good service. Voila! - quick service with a smile.

In spite of our grumbling about the quality of service, we do like Wellington.  It reminds us of Seattle in the weather, people, and excellent food. Many of the locals tend to dress in black, probably to catch the warmth of the sun. It's rumored that it's difficult to find a bad cup of coffee in Wellington and we agree. Cafe culture is alive and well along with excellent coffee and food.

Charity run along Wellington harbor

Peter entering Crab Shack

Family birthday party

The next morning brings us better weather with no rain and even a bit of sunshine. Since our ferry doesn't leave until early afternoon, we decide to check out the Wellington Museum which we spotted the previous evening along the harbor. It's a pleasant walk as the harbor area is dotted with interesting public art most with a marine theme.

Giant ship smoke stacks

Shade sails

Industrial snails ?

This museum is mostly dedicated to Wellington's seafaring history and in particular the tragic wreck of the ferry TEV Wahine on Barrett Reef at the entrance to Wellington Harbour.

Mermaid ship's figurehead

Recreation of custom's storage house

Captain Hazard braves the Cook Strait

As instructed by the Bluebridge Ferry staff, we line up our vans for boarding an hour prior to departure. Once parked, we have time to meet other passengers waiting to board.  Right away we are attracted to the Teddy's... a retired couple traveling on a motor tricycle festooned with stuffed Teddy Bears. We are amused to learn the wife bought the motor tricycle and decorated it with the bears after their last name - Teddy. She's also the main driver.

The Ferry Terminal area in Wellington

Teddy Bear tricycle

Meet the Teddy's

Next we meet Coco and Suzanne. They are on their way to visit relatives in the Nelson area.

Coco stretches out on the warm asphalt

Coco and Suzanne

Coco is so cute - I'd love to bring him home

We continue to mill about until boarding is called. Not far away is a Mexican food kiosk promising "hot" Mexican food.  Word to the wise - avoid Mexican food in New Zealand. It's not what you'd expect. I find a vehicle with square toys set up on the dash. Later we learn these colorful cubes are toys passes out at various gas stations.  A little before departure, a loudspeaker announcement tells us to return to our vehicles for boarding.

Jill discovers a "hot" Mexican food booth

Mystery cubes

Lined up and ready to board

Once on-board, we set up at a table next to a large window and then take turns exploring the ferry.

All vehicles are loaded and ready to go

Beautiful day at Wellington Harbor

View from our table

Slowly the ferry moves away from the dock and down the harbor toward the infamous Cook Strait.

Barrett Reef

Enjoying snacks at our table

Entering Cook Straight the waves get rougher

It's getting pretty choppy out in the Strait

Mark's drugs are NOT working

The waters calm closer to the South Island

Passengers anticipate docking as we near Picton

Wow - it's cramped down on the vehicle deck

These truck drivers and staff are skilled at disembarking

We arrive in Picton by late afternoon and have less than a mile or two to drive to the Picton Top 10 Holiday Park. We have time to stroll along the marina as the light fades on the surrounding hills and then to back to the vans to celebrate arriving on the South Island.

Disembarking at Picton, South Island

Day's last light at Picton marina