Black Hills, SD

From the Platte River in Wyoming we continue eastward to the Black Hills of South Dakota, a small mountain range rising out of the high prairies. The original Lakota Sioux name is Paha Sapa which translates to Black Hills referring to the appearance of the dark trees covering their slopes as seen from the open prairies. The earliest evidence of human habitation dates back to 11,500 BC with the Clovis Culture. Over time, Native American tribes have held the Black Hills sacred right up to current time. Gold was discovered 1874 and miners soon poured in. As what happens all too often in the history of humans, greed trumps common sense and integrity. Breaking the Fort Laramie Treaty of 1868,  President Ulysses S. Grant sent troops under General George Armstrong Custer to retake the Black Hills to open the area to gold miners.  Although Custer was killed in the Battle of Little Big Horn, US troops eventually prevailed over the coalition of Lakota, Cheyennes, and Arapahoes. These Native tribes where then split up and dispersed against their will to different reservations.

Not much traffic out here

Custer State Park

We have chosen Custer State Park as our base to explore the Black Hills.  A large prairie dog town and a small herd of buffalo greet us as we enter the park.

Prairie Dogs

Buffalo

With help from Ranger Becky,  we find a very nice camp along a babbling stream at Center Lake. This campground comes with a bath house with hot showers. Marti's happy - very happy. 

Our babbling brook

Nice camp

with a view

After setting up camp and showering, we stroll down to the lake.

Center Lake

Big granite boulders

Nice playground for kids

By morning, we've decided to drive the scenic Needles Highway, Iron Mountain Road and then circling back on the Wildlife Loop Road.


The route takes us through the rugged granite  Needles as well as providing interesting side trips and lots of opportunity to see wildlife.  Along the way, we'll be passing through tunnels so narrow that at one point we have to pull in our side mirrors to make it through.


Finally the road takes us over "Pigtail Bridge," which I've never heard of before and am anxious to see what it is. No wonder this scenic drive is popular with motorcyclists.

Ahh - we're off

First narrow tunnel

Yup - that one's pretty tight

The "Needles" of the Black Hills

As we near the Needles, we stop at the next tunnel and are astonished to see a mother and kid Mountain Goats.  When we first entered the park, we saw a notice that these animals had recently been reintroduced to this area and to watch for them. Since they are such elusive creatures, we certainly never expected to see any. Apparently they are attracted to a mineral seep in this tunnel. I hop out of the truck for pictures, taking care not to get too close or alarm them.

Granite "Needles"

Mt Goat at seep

Kid and mother await cars to clear the tunnel

We're just about to go through the tunnel when a magnificent male shows up sporting a radio collar. It's a treat to watch him navigate the narrow ledges down the cliff side to join his family.

We stop for lunch at Sylvan Lake and go for a short hike afterwards. This lake was created in 1881 when Theodore Reder built a dam across Sunday Gulch Creek.

Sylvan Lake

Rock climbing class

This place is fun

Peter portrait

Gorgeous day for a hike around a beautiful lake

Peek between boulders

Canada Goose herd goslings through the high grass

After the hike, we turn northward back onto the Needles Hwy to complete our loop on Iron Mountain Road going over Pigtail Bridge, which curves over itself similar to a cover leaf freeway entrance/exit.  Then we drive onto the Wildlife Loop, which more than delivers.

Back onto Needles Hwy

Approaching Pigtail Bridge

Another narrow tunnel

Pronghorn

Prairie Dogs

Buffalo - i.e. American Bison

Custer State Park supports very healthy herds of Buffalo, perhaps the most iconic animal of the American West. Before 1800, tens of millions of these bison roamed North America. However, over hunting and government sponsored slaughters brought these once mighty herds to the brink of extinction. Modern attempts to bring the buffalo back have been so successful, they are no longer considered an endangered species.  South Dakota has been particularly successful managing their herds.  Once a year on the last Friday in September, the Custer State Park Buffalo Roundup helps keep these herds healthy.  The animals are inoculated against diseases and culled to prevent over-grazing.  The culled animals are auctioned off. Some find new homes on private ranches, others are not so lucky and may become buffalo burgers.

Cute calf

Large male

Magnificent Bull

The Blue Bell Lodge has been recommended as THE place to eat on the park, so we have to check it out. On our way, we stop to admire some horses before stopping at the lodge.  The dinning room is classic western style with an excellent bar and food.

Horses drinking from a stream

Blue Bell Lodge

Covered wagon by lodge

Peter waits for our orders to be served

This painting comes alive in South Dakota