Along for the ride: Before the Plague in Paradise

We are off again for a planned month on the Kona side of the Big Island, Hawaii. Peter's sister Jill and her husband Mark are joining us on this adventure.


Salt flat in south San Francisco Bay

Last of the land in California

Coming in for a landing in Kona

Our first sunset back on the island

We are staying in a vacation home in Kona Palisades at a similar location and elevation as the house we would like to buy to see how it would be to live here. After getting our temporary home stocked up, we take Jill and Mark out to see the town of Kailua Kona. Our first stop is at the Alii Gardens Marketplace. I stop at one of the booths to talk to the vendor. She is breaking off part of the hard candy shell of an M&M chocolate covered peanut. She sets it down on the counter and tells me to watch what happens next as she points to a gecko climbing down the wall behind her. The gecko apparently knows this routine and quickly comes up to the M&M and starts licking the chocolate. The gecko simply ignores us laughing and just keeps eating. Never realized that geckos could be so tame.

We move the car into a downtown parking area to more easily walk around the downtown area. It's the first time we realize just how few other tourists are here, which is very unusual for this time of year.

Morning in Kona

Tame gecko enjoying a chocolate M&M

Jill at Kona Inn Shopping Village

We take Jill and Mark to the Kona Inn for lunch to sample their great Mai Tai's and Mud Pie. We arrive a little before noon to secure a table next to the ocean. Oddly enough, there's lots of tables for such a popular place. Without really thinking why, we are delighted to get a great table.

Banyon tree along Alii Drive

Mark with pulled pork sandwich

Mud Pie split 4 ways doesn't last long

After polishing off the excellent Mud Pie, we walk off the extra calories by further exploring town. We meet some locals who have brought their dog down to the bay for some surfing. Although we wait to see the dog surf, these locals are definitely on "Island Time" and are so slow getting in the water, we give up and move on.

Restored Heiau on Kailua Bay

Local surfer dog

Sea wall along Kailua Bay

The next day we head north to show them a different part of the island. We stop for lunch at the Seafood Bar and Grill in Kohala. Again we are delighted to easily find a table in a usually crowded restaurant. We then head for the Pu‘ukoholā Heiau National Historic Site which is home to the largest Heiau (temple) on the Hawaiian Islands. It was built by Kamehameha I who is famous for unifying all the islands under one rule thereby fulfilling the prophecies of the high priests. This enormous Heiau was built by stones that were passed hand to hand in a line from a valley many miles away. If one of these stones were dropped and touched the ground, the stone was passed back as unusable.

Mark & Jill at Seafood Bar & Grill

Visitor Center

Pu'ukohola Heiau

Offering Tower

Hawaiian voyaging canoe

These were used for trading long distances between the far flung Polynesian society

I have told Jill about a woman who sold wonderful indigo dyed scarves at the Waimea Farmers Market on Saturdays. The day we went to the market was really blustery and the booth wasn't there. So we decided to try and track her down online. Jill found a West Hawaii Today article about Helen that listed her phone number. So we call Helen and yes she is the same person, but she no longer sells at the market. However, she does workshops on working with indigo dye. So we sign up and also enlist Liza who is still celebrating her birthday. Helen enthusiastically greets us at the door of her cottage. She has set up a delicious lunch spread for us. Such a treat! Thank you Helen for making this afternoon such a wonderful time together.

Helen of Indigo Blue Hawaii

Liza decked out for the dye party

Wow - fabulous

Dye hut in Helen's back yard

Demoing how to make a square pattern

Jill unwraps one of her silk scarves

Ta-da! Great job Jill

We proudly show our samples

All are hung up to dry back at our vacation rental

The following Sunday we meet Liza and Paul in the parking lot at Pu'uhonua of Honaunau National Historical Park (Place of Refuge), where we are greeted by a good sized herd of wild goats. Actually these goats seem to be well adapted to people.

Goat Greetings

Real Tiki's

Recreated temple

Paul suggests we follow him on a hike not far away and we agree

Palm trees and white sand beach

Rift in the lava flow

Determined tree drills its roots into the lava

View from cliff overlook looking back towards Pu'uhonua of Honaunau

Happy hikers - Peter, Jill, Paul and moi

On another day hang out on the beach at Kua Bay. Again, we are delighted to find easy parking and fewer people than expected. Again, we don't question why and are just delighted by our good luck.

A local spins his boogie board on wave tops

Not a local

Body surfer catches a wave

Of course we have to take Jill and Mark to Hawaii's Volcano National Park - the island's must see attraction.

Punalu's black sand beach

Water lilies in bloom on a small lake

Snoozing turtle

Entering the park

Peter points to the trail across one of the craters

Very lush vegetation reminds us of New Zealand

Hiking trail across the crater floor

On our way back we pass by Mauna Kea where Hawaiian natives and supporters have been demonstrating against the building of another large telescope on the mountain they hold as sacred.