Along for the ride: Indian Country

From the Hopi mesas, we head northeast towards Canyon de Chelly. Although I had visited the canyon early spring in 1973, it was so cold with snow on the ground, we didn't stay long. Tent camping in the snow has never been my thing. Much nicer to have a warm comfortable motor home.

We pass through Steamboat AZ and then by a rock formation that must be Steamboat rock. In this part of the country, town names reflect close-by rock formations used as landmarks.

This must be Steamboat rock

Humm - any ruins left in this cave?

Along the way, we decide to take a short detour to Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site. Maybe we'll find a good deal on a Navajo rug (but I doubt it).

The road towards Hubbell Trading Post

Up a tree lined lane

Ahh we found it

Looks just like a trading post should

with Navajo cashier

Ohhh... Navajo rugs - my fave.

Amazing old baskets cover the ceiling

and of course silver and turquoise jewelry

Trading posts were also a common stop for travelers. Consequently, a stable and corral are available.

Corral fence with a hogan in the distance

inside the stable

horses safely in their corral

Shortly we are back on the road to Canyon de Chelly.

Wide open country outside of Chinle, AZ

Entering Canyon de Chelly National Monument

We camp at the Navajo family run Spider Rock Campground on the southern rim of the canyon. It's both beautiful and funky.

Entrance to Spider Rock Campground

traditional Navajo hogan with east entrance

Our campsite at Spider Rock

That night a short thunderstorm passes over and leaves the air clean and sparkling in the morning... perfect for viewing the canyon. We start naturally at Spider Rock overlook where we meet a group of visitors from France. They are amazed at the views as they have never seen anything like it before.

Cottonwoods line the Chinle Creek

Spider Rock

light and shadow on the canyon below

Navajo legends tell of Spider Woman coming to teach the fine art of weaving. She is said to live on top of Spider Rock. Navajo women tell their naughty children that Spider Woman will steal bad children and keep them on the rock if they don't behave better (the anti-Santa Claus).

Spider Rock in Canyon de Chelly

Peter is becoming ill from respiratory problems probably caused by the strong winds when we crossed the desert. We decide to move our camp down to Cottonwood at the mouth of the canyon and stay put until he recovers some.

Campsite at Cottonwood Campground

Evening light through IQ door

Golden hour on cottonwoods

Quiet evening at Cottonwood

The next morning Peter is still resting, so I strike out on my own. Walking around the campground, I meet two couples talking over coffee... one from Alaska and one from California. We joke and swap traveling stories. I tell them I'm considering a horse back tour of the canyon. The man from California then tells a hilarious tale of an overnight horse back trip that was equal to Billy Crystal's "City Slickers." Humm... maybe a jeep tour would be a better idea. A few phone calls later ends me up on a 1pm three hour group tour for $75 (going rate). We meet at the front of the Canyon de Chelly Visitors' Center. Our Navajo tour guide, Francine, grew up in the canyon and knows every nook and cranny.

The canyon is flush with spring run off

Francine - our tour guide

Later petroglyph showing horseback hunters chasing a deer

As we start up the canyon, Francine points out many petroglyphs and paintings on the walls. I just shake my head and laugh as we had completely missed these when hiking through the canyon in 1973. We simply didn't know where to look. Some of these petroglyphs are Hopi in nature.

Petroglyphs and later painting on canyon walls

We stop the jeep under a massive overhang called "Martini Rock" as it gives you a massive hangover. Yes, many Navajos have a great sense of humor.

Our jeep parked under Martini Rock

Canyon de Chelly is actually two canyons. We first turn up the Canyon del Muerto branch. Again we see a mix of older petroglyphs mixed with later paintings of antelopes as we approach Antelope House, one of the major ruins in the canyon. Archeologists believe it was inhabited by the Kayenta Anasazi between 1050 to 1200 AD. It has over 90 rooms and reached four stories in height. It also contains 2 to 3 large kivas with several smaller ones.

Just outside the ruins are a few tables of vendors selling their wares. I am attracted to a beautiful wood flute as it's made from an unusual wood. I ask the Navajo man what the wood is and how much it is. He replies it's made from mango wood and costs $750. I'm surprised and gently place it back on the table exclaiming "Ooohhh ... I better be careful putting that one back." He just laughs and offers to trade it for my camera. "Oh no! Not my camera!" By now he's really laughing. He tells me that it's not unusual to have foreign visitors come through and buy two or three of his beautiful flutes at once. He loves selling them in the canyon as visitors from all over the world come to him so he never needs to leave.

Antelope petroglyphs and paintings that give Antelope House it's name

Antelope House Ruins

We turn back to the junction and up the Canyon de Chelly branch. The walls of the canyon themselves are beautiful under the ever changing skies.

We make it to White House Ruins just as the rains starts to spatter down scattering the vendors set up beside the ruins. This is the only ruin which visitors can hike to without a guide.

White House Ruin gets its name from some of the original white plaster remaining on one of the upper buildings. It's one of the largest ruins in the canyon and may have contained over 90 rooms housing 12 Anasazi families around 1060-1275 AD.

White House Ruin

The clouds and raindrops thicken as we leave the canyon... a fitting time to exit. Back at the Visitors' Center, I meet a Navajo silversmith who describes his process in making pieces. He's a sweet man and very patient in answering my questions.

The next day Peter's feeling like traveling again so we explore the north rim of the canyon. At Mummy Cave Ruins we see are examples of Chaco Culture building techniques, which only whets our interest in seeing Chaco next.