Hot Springs North Island, New Zealand

While camped at Hawk's Bay, we spot Morere Hot Springs on the map not far away. The North Island has more volcanic activity with more hot springs. Since our flights take off in a few days, it's our last chance to take advantage of them.

So it's off we go

to Morere Hot Springs

The main hot pools are under a tall open roof. These three pools are like Goldy Locks and the three bears - cool, warm, and hot. It doesn't take each of us long to find our favorites. While soaking in the hot water, we meet an Aussie woman who works as a guide for the Australian Department of Parks and Wildlife,  equivalent to the  New Zealand DOC. She is married to a Kiwi and they spend about half their time in New Zealand.  She too is a hot springs enthusiast and asks where we are going next. We explain we are on our way back to the Auckland Airport. She tells us about her favorite hot spring which is along our way - Waikite ("living waters" in Moari)  Valley Thermal Pools. We are delighted and thank her for the tip.

We also meet some Kiwi locals who have been coming to these pools for over 50 years. They fill us in on some of the local history and the development of these springs in particular. We learn Morere springs is actually salt water from an ancient sea.  More Kiwis arrive and the conversation turns into complaints about increased road traffic, not only from tourists but also from log trucks.  Coming from Monterey Bay, we can easily sympathize with getting swamped with tourists. Howerver, my mind tends to wander away.  Turns out I should have paid closer attention to what she was saying.

Large open covered area for hot pools

Ahhh - just right

After showering off, we pick a scenic trail to take us back to the office and parking lot. This trail starts off by following the creek that runs through the reserve and then climbs over a steep hill back to the office/gift shop (naturally - exit via the gift shop). The footing is a bit tricky with rocks and gnarled roots to avoid, but the tree and fern canopy is a true delight.

Yes - this water is from an ancient sea

Creek alongside of hiking trail

with fern canopy overhead

As we drive back to our campsite, we encounter close call.  We stop at a parking lot of a cafe in a sleepy hamlet to exchange drivers. I am snoozing in the back of the van behind the passenger seat. As Peter turns his signal on and starts to merge back onto the roadway, a fully loaded log truck with horns blaring and brakes squealing whooshes by just missing my nose by inches. The forceful wake rocks our van.  We all look at each other and ask what just happened. It soon becomes apparent as the log truck screeches to a halt with brakes smoking, about 50 yards away blocking the lane. Looks like his brakes have locked up.  We inch onto the road and wait behind the log truck.

The driver gets out and places hazard cones around the truck. He then calls out on his cell phone while directing us and other traffic around him.  We wonder why he was speeding over a blind hill as we were clearly in a slow zone. Perhaps he was rushing trying to make a schedule. Who knows?

This incident gave me the willies for the next few days. Still, I am thankful no harm came of it. New Zealand traffic statistics say 1/3 of fatal accidents involve tourists. Glad we didn't add to them.

Apparently the truck driver ignored this sign

as well as this one

Our next stop is Mahia Beach on a recommendation by a local. Nothing like a near death experience to make one appreciate a nice walk on the beach.

Mahia Beach

We get a good night's rest and then drive to Taupo for our next night's stop.  Taupo town is packed with bicycle riders as it's the weekend of the Lake Taupo Challenge bike race. The main race is the 160 km (~100 miles) Round the Lake event. A friendly race staffer tells us he participated in the Round the Lake event last year and it was much tougher than he imagined. Not only is it a long race but strong winds are a big factor.  We find a sidewalk cafe close to the finish line and watch contestants as they cross.

Back on the road the next day we appreciate the beautiful New Zealand countryside even more knowing we will soon leave.

Classic New Zealand countryside

Entering Waikite Valley

The next stop is the Waikite Valley Thermal Pools. After parking, we amble down the pathway alongside a boiling hot river.

I snap a shot of the entrance sign

Boiling river at Waikite

Pathway to pools

We explore the hot pool area before deciding to stay. 

Main large pool

Smaller sunnier pool

and my favorite

Nice place! We sign up at the office where the lady at the desk tells us about a short hike along the boiling river. Of course, we have to check it out.

Steam rising along trail

Hot!

Boiling hot!

The steam created by this hot spring provides the right growing environment for some very unusual plant life. For example the geothermal clubmosses (seen below left) are ancient plants dating back some 360 million years ago. The most amazing is the Christella fern (pictured below right) which is found in a few geothermal areas south of Rotoura as well as in the rain forests of South America. At one time, Australia, New Zealand, and South America were one continent known as Gondwanaland, which broke up approximately 85 million years ago.  The Christella fern is one of only a few species to survive the break up. With global warming maybe more parts of our planet turn into steamy jungles.

Geothermal club moss

Boiling river creates a steamy hot jungle

Christella fern

But enough about evolution, it's time to hit the hot pools.  By the time we get back from the short hike several more people have arrived. Most appear to be locals with only a few tourists like ourselves. One group of locals is a large Thai family including a younger couple with their toddler.  It's the toddler's first time in the hot pools and she loves them. What's there not to like?

Young Thai family with toddler play in pool

Yes - it's hot!

Jill and Mark chillin'

All that relaxing makes us hungry. Fortunately, there's an excellent cafe here and we thoroughly enjoy lunch.

If we ever make it back to New Zealand, we would certainly come back here.

Last look at the Waikipe Valley hot river

Our last night we return to where we started Miranda Hot Springs Holiday Park. To  allow more time for getting organized and packed, we have dinner at the fish and chips take away (Kiwi for take out) next door at the main hot springs.  Since it's a weekend the full staff, all three of them, are there. One  is an Irishman who is very interested in American politics and especially in Donald Trump.  We all laugh (thinking Trump will soon drop out of the race) and quip back, "Oh you mean American politics as a reality TV show?"  We all share a good laugh, but looking back after Trump's become the presumptive GOP nominee, maybe we shouldn't have been so flippant.

Since Miranda Hot Springs on a earlier page was covered on an earlier page, I'd like to focus instead on the great facilities many of the Holiday Parks in New Zealand offer. In addition to the usual showers, many holiday parks also provide:

• industrial kitchen with dinning area
• BBQ area
• TV & Internet room
• Superb recycling

It's been great having such nice facilities and we'll miss them at the usual American commercial RV or government sponsored parks.

Almost back to Miranda

Industrial kitchen

outside dinning area

BBQ area

Kiwis recycle just about everything

TV/Internet room

The next morning we meet a retired couple with a home made 4x4 camper vehicle.  They have both worked for New Zealand's DOC and have lots of recommendations for places to see and things to do. {Sigh} we ask why didn't we meet them sooner? They laugh and tell us that we need to return. We agree.

Van cleaned and gear packed

We're off above Auckland on a rainy day

& high above the clouds.

Good-bye New Zealand - we hope to return